Prepping a glass car body

Anything goes in the world of fiberglass and plastic

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 11:18 pm
There is nothing wrong with it but it literally spec.s out the same as USC's Duraglass which is also a short strand fiber 100% waterproof vinyl ester styrene based filler. The thing is Duraglass is less than half that price. You'll find that same size tub for $18 to $20 and my one paint jobber still has gallons at just $49 or so. I've used Duraglass in kit car building for 28 years now and have not seen any other product that was very much improved over it. When using it just make sure it has plenty of surface profile to stick to. A minimum of an 80 grit surface is best for it.....40 even better.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2018 10:56 am
JimLev wrote:Tim, hope you don't mind me piggybacking on your thread.

Darrel, some guys have said this 3M filler was excellent, have you ever seen or used it? It could be good for the seams.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBKL1Y/?c ... _lig_dp_it

thanks,
JimLev



Nope, don't mind at all. Us FFR 33 owners gotta stick together right.

Tim



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2018 11:13 am
Thanks again for the info Darrel.
Guess this is the stuff, and a LOT less expensive too!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002I0MOY0/re ... c_continue

Hi Tim, yes we gotta stick together. Nice rockets.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2018 11:42 am
Yep, that is the stuff. I've done some fairly serious work with Duraglass over the years. Before epoxy resins became more popular Duraglass was a kit builder's recommended material for doing "grafting" of parts. Early Datsun/Nissan Z cars would use it to fill/in areas and then you would do resin/finely chopped mat over that.
Hmmmmm.....let me rat around in here.....okay so you'll see me using Duraglass to get the initial shapes in this old thread....
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7938&p=48940&hilit=Darrelk+fiberglass+kit+build#p48940
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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