Prepping a glass car body
24 posts
• Page 3 of 3 • 1, 2, 3
There is nothing wrong with it but it literally spec.s out the same as USC's Duraglass which is also a short strand fiber 100% waterproof vinyl ester styrene based filler. The thing is Duraglass is less than half that price. You'll find that same size tub for $18 to $20 and my one paint jobber still has gallons at just $49 or so. I've used Duraglass in kit car building for 28 years now and have not seen any other product that was very much improved over it. When using it just make sure it has plenty of surface profile to stick to. A minimum of an 80 grit surface is best for it.....40 even better.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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Settled In
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Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2018 2:42 pm Country: USA |
Nope, don't mind at all. Us FFR 33 owners gotta stick together right. Tim |
Settled In
Posts: 26
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2014 2:16 pm Location: New Mexico Country: USA |
Thanks again for the info Darrel.
Guess this is the stuff, and a LOT less expensive too! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002I0MOY0/re ... c_continue Hi Tim, yes we gotta stick together. Nice rockets. |
Yep, that is the stuff. I've done some fairly serious work with Duraglass over the years. Before epoxy resins became more popular Duraglass was a kit builder's recommended material for doing "grafting" of parts. Early Datsun/Nissan Z cars would use it to fill/in areas and then you would do resin/finely chopped mat over that.
Hmmmmm.....let me rat around in here.....okay so you'll see me using Duraglass to get the initial shapes in this old thread.... viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7938&p=48940&hilit=Darrelk+fiberglass+kit+build#p48940 Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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24 posts
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