Hi again. Just discovered you're in Australia when you commented about the differences in labor rates (I looked up your profile). I love Australian films.
I admire your skill in this matter.
But if you don't mind, what do you mean when you state, "the narrow bar" and "the bottom bar"?
Anything goes in the world of fiberglass and plastic
Have to love Australian movies.
The front of your car looks like this:
Mask where I've drawn the red lines and the light. For the light use short pieces of tape and slide the side of the tape into the joint a little. Much easier and more effective than trying to use one continuous length.
Backmask where I've drawn the blue line, i.e. stick half the tape on to the flange around the wheel arch, leaving the other half, sticky side up sticking out. Use this to attach your masking paper/plastic.
By "bottom" or "narrow" bar I mean the thin painted section under the grille. After the repair is done keep primer to just the repair area then extend base or colour coat to where I've put the green line. Then extend clear to the yellow line, gradually fading it out. Lightly mist the fade out area with blending thinners and you should not be able to see the join. This only works on narrow sections - almost impossible to do on wider sections or mid-panel.
The photo in your previous post was very helpful. Thanks.
But I think the instructions you included were only for painting.
I will still need to remove the bumper and the light, then use a heat gun, then bang the bumper from the inside out. Right? My concern, before worrying about the painting, was how to remove the light and bumper.
In terms of Australian films, funny enough I've never watched the Crocodile Dundee ones. The ones I've seen and loved are the following:
Picnic at Hanging Rock
We of the Never Never
The Last Days of Chez Nous
My Brilliant Career
Rabbit Proof Fence
A visiting Aussie, whom I ran into recently, recommended I see Lantana but haven't yet had the chance.
I have been doing my own research on your suggestions. Today I found this video:
It was very useful and encouraging!
My question: If I was to use a heat gun like the guy in the video, do I need to remove the light? Also, is there room under and behind the bumper to simply punch or push the dent out with my hand?
But my main concern is the fact that I don't have access to an electrical outlet since I have street parking. A heat gun is going to need an outlet, unless I buy a battery one, as you recommended in one of your posts.
Removing a front bar on most Japanese or Korean cars isn't that hard.
There are usually clips and screws across the top and bottom (underneath). Most have a screw holding the top back corner to the guard and clips or screws inside the wheel arch. The joint between guard and bar clips in (lift a bit and pull straight out, don't bend) and there are retainers under the headlights. Insurance times for R&R are typically around 15 minutes but if you're unfamiliar with the process, allow an hour.
Grilles and foglights/DRLs attach with screws to the rear of the bar.
When you heat the plastic to push out the dent you don't want to "hammer" it. Rather just gently work it out. I use a heat gun set at 350C but that is very hot - recommend you run at around 220C which is much safer until you get some experience. You don't want to turn it into a molten mess. Heat gently but evenly including the area around the outside of the dent. As the plastic starts to soften work from the outside in - don't be tempted to just give it a big push in the middle.
Thanks for your post.
Yesterday I tried reaching behind the dent but it's impossible. I have to remove the bumper. There's no way around this.
So my next move is to research how to remove a front bumper on a 2016 Camry, which is why your post is a good first learning step for me.
At least one advantage to removing the bumper is that I can take it home and use an electric heat gun.
if like most, its not a bad job but can be a bit time consuming.
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