Outside Painting My Project

Anything goes in the world of fiberglass and plastic



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2020 12:36 pm
Hi guys! John here, 1st time posting, Let me tell you a little about myself 1st, I'm retired and 67 years old, live in southern California, I do all my own mechanic's and very good at it!
I'm about 30 miles inland from the pacific halfway between LA and San Diego in a valley, temps here during the summer can get really hot, up to 110F low humidity, Palm Springs is 45 minutes away.
So my project is my 2002 KIA Sedona van, its been a super reliable vehicle! funds are tight so its DIY all the way!
Original white paint on the van is in great shape and believe it was single stage from factory, no clear coat issues at all, but the lower half is awful gold metallic 2 stage that's nasty only on one side where the hot sun has affected the clear coat, will do a single stage color change to Arctic white on plastic parts.
I decided to remove panels and bumpers and spraying them in my back yard, why outside? I have an HOA that would castrate me if they drove by and saw me painting it my driveway! I have a big backyard and large brick patios to set up an area with a large easyup.
I plan on having plastic sheeting on 3 sides of easy up etc.
I have 2 new spray guns and a Campbell Hausfeld compressor, specs to come later.

Plan on painting in June during one of our killer heatwaves early in the morning before the bugs wake up and no wind!
As far and paint and primer, does not need to be a killer paint job, not stripping off old paint just removing clear coat,original base coat is fine, I will lightly sand and prep.

I did contact our only paint shop/Jobber here and he quoted me $425 for one gallon of PPG single stage! WTF? no way its an old van not a Ferrari lol , will be buying the paint off the net, Amazon most likely something like Duplicolor.
I'll have lots of questions here and really appreciate any guidance on project!

1st question is how much paint and would this require? bumpers and panels.
paint will be single stage kit acrylic 2-3 coats
Primer? how much? don't think I'll need any adhesion primer, just a 2K????
Should I buy gallons or quarts?
Reducer to thin it down so it sprays well, how much reducer?
is acrylic a OK choice for this project on plastic?
Now the pictures! Thanks!
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 3:11 pm
Painting outside is done all the time.
Picking the correct time of the day in your area is critical. Too late and bugs will be a problem, too early and cold temperatures and/or dew can be a problem. Then there is the prevailing wind that must be considered.

For plastic parts, Darrell is the expert and I'll defer to him if his advice is different than mine.
Personally, I would use just a quality epoxy primer and forgo the 2k. The epoxy remains flexible to a degree and will not crack or chip as easily. You can let it cure, block sand, add another coat if necessary, final sand and go to color.

Adhesion promoter is generally only necessary on raw plastic and even then not all plastics are the same.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 4:15 pm
First thing is that paint on plastics of those older Korean vehicles is notorious for frying up on contact with thinners. The later ones were an improvement, but still need care.

So, 1K products (including Adhesion Promoter), are just asking for trouble. Even 2K products, if applied too heavily, can cause issues.

I would remove ALL paint and start again with a 2K primer, followed by a 2K single stage topcoat.

2K products are hazardous because they contain isocyanates. Be very careful of how you deal with spray drift and make sure that you are wearing full PPE. Californian regulations are quite stringent - it may be worth your while to check up on these. Maybe even see if there is a local shop that will hire their booth.

As for quantities, I'd allow around 1.5 litres RFU to do that job with 2 coats. Since I'm probably a bit more efficient than you then 2 litres may be needed. If you buy cheap paint you may need up to 50% more to get the correct coverage. Make sure that your primer is white or off-white - this will save on the amount of topcoat needed to get coverage.

Get the Tech Data Sheets for whatever paint you buy and mix strictly according to what is detailed in the TDS.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 11:35 pm
OK thanks for the info, really not into sanding down to bare plastic, is there a primer that makes a good barrier so original paint is isolated?
If I'm going single stage acrylic urethane do I need a compatible primer?
I'm thinking of using single stage because the sun is so strong here it might just cook a 2 stage clear just like it has on my van 2 stage plastic's, heck my sons Mercedes clear coat is pealing off like paper towels lol.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 1:47 am
I don't mean to hijack a thread but I have a question about painting outside. If I was to sand down a bumper to plastic., Apply bulldog adhesion promoter, and do some feeling of scratches and stuff but not prime it yet and leave it outside. Will leaving the bumper outside not primed affect anything



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 1:51 am
SoCal John wrote:Hi guys! John here, 1st time posting, Let me tell you a little about myself 1st, I'm retired and 67 years old, live in southern California, I do all my own mechanic's and very good at it!
I'm about 30 miles inland from the pacific halfway between LA and San Diego in a valley, temps here during the summer can get really hot, up to 110F low humidity, Palm Springs is 45 minutes away.
So my project is my 2002 KIA Sedona van, its been a super reliable vehicle! funds are tight so its DIY all the way!
Original white paint on the van is in great shape and believe it was single stage from factory, no clear coat issues at all, but the lower half is awful gold metallic 2 stage that's nasty only on one side where the hot sun has affected the clear coat, will do a single stage color change to Arctic white on plastic parts.
I decided to remove panels and bumpers and spraying them in my back yard, why outside? I have an HOA that would castrate me if they drove by and saw me painting it my driveway! I have a big backyard and large brick patios to set up an area with a large easyup.
I plan on having plastic sheeting on 3 sides of easy up etc.
I have 2 new spray guns and a Campbell Hausfeld compressor, specs to come later.

Plan on painting in June during one of our killer heatwaves early in the morning before the bugs wake up and no wind!
As far and paint and primer, does not need to be a killer paint job, not stripping off old paint just removing clear coat,original base coat is fine, I will lightly sand and prep.

I did contact our only paint shop/Jobber here and he quoted me $425 for one gallon of PPG single stage! WTF? no way its an old van not a Ferrari lol , will be buying the paint off the net, Amazon most likely something like Duplicolor.
I'll have lots of questions here and really appreciate any guidance on project!

1st question is how much paint and would this require? bumpers and panels.
paint will be single stage kit acrylic 2-3 coats
Primer? how much? don't think I'll need any adhesion primer, just a 2K????
Should I buy gallons or quarts?
Reducer to thin it down so it sprays well, how much reducer?
is acrylic a OK choice for this project on plastic?
Now the pictures! Thanks!


I just bought all the material I need. Adhesion promoter, paint and epoxy primer/sealer and it comes with whatever you need to mix it with. I'm also doing a bumper and I paid about $160 That's including tack cloth and a few other small things.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 10:01 am
SoCal John wrote: is there a primer that makes a good barrier so original paint is isolated?


There are specific isolators but, generally, epoxy will work as an isolator over repaired or previously painted surfaces. Don't thin it. Some 2K primers will also work. Look for suitability over thermoplastic acrylic substrates. Again, don't thin more than is absolutely necessary and apply a couple of light to medium coats. Allow to cure 24 hours and then denib and apply a couple more light - medium coats. Block back to P800 wet and apply your topcoats.

I you see any reaction after the first application of epoxy then it's at this point that you'll have to bite the bullet and take it all off. On that note, you'll find that there isn't much under the basecoat and removing that last couple of layers is much easier than removing the clear. Having done lots of these I don't even think twice about it any more. Just take it all off - far better than the risk of all that time to have to do it again, not to mention the cost of the wasted paint and having to do it in three visits instead of just one.
Chris

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 10:11 am
heyhi1 wrote:I don't mean to hijack a thread


But you did anyway.

heyhi1 wrote:Apply bulldog adhesion promoter, and do some feeling of scratches


Why? You can feel the scratches beforehand. Don't use AP before you feel them and certainly, once you've felt them, don't use AP over the top or leave for a long period, either inside or outside. Neither feeler, nor AP, or even primer, is designed to be left outside.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 9:26 pm
Started! so wet sanded 220 then 400, ordered some grey 3M scotch brite pads, hear its equivalent to 1000 grit? sanding it down to bare plastic will take me forever lol, clear comes off easily but base is on really good, there are a lot of straight nooks and crannies to sand, spent about 40 minutes on one panel, idea of epoxy primer for a barrier sound good to me, light build coats with dry time in between seems like it should work as isolation, who knows what KIA used in 2002? if I was 30 again I would go down to bare plastic but my wife is disabled for now from a bad surgery and I do everything for her and this house so my time is limited but I sneak time here and there lol.
I've done some YouTube research on painting plastic bumpers for the last 6 months and find lots of professionals painting new bare plastic videos tons of that! but there are also professionals saying if it has paint on it just sand lightly ,prime and paint.

I also bought some rattle cans from Lowe's of Rustoleum Wheel restorer for the wonder van, silver, I painted my sons Mercedes rims 3 years ago and it holds up really good!
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 9:37 pm
Also what should I use to fill small dings? red glazing putty?
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