Bridging A Gap

Anything goes in the world of fiberglass and plastic



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 10:42 pm
Mike - I would de-wax and scuff the parts at least a couple of inches up - Both sides. Then build up the outside with a layer of duct tape - about 1/4 inch from the beveled / scuffed edge. Then use carpet / preacher (two-faced tape) over the duct tape. Attach the formica / vinyl or card board on the outside of the two-faced tape. Then tape that in place (to serve to keep leakage in :)
This method adds "thickness" to the mold so you can add thickened epoxy resin as the first coat - from the inside. Once that is green (almost set but you can still add another layer of resin for a chemical bond) add another coat. This to the 90 degree side if it will not hold the mold. Then while the second coat is still green add mesh / mat and more epoxy resin for strength. Use another mat / mesh while still green - overlapping the first mesh / mat. If you have to let it set - you'll need to scuff (80 grit - hence the name) before additional coats - mechanical bond - which is not as good. The window is about an hour.
Lots of gloves, brushes and time.
I use different color pigment for the different layers to show when / if I sand through.
Adding the tape to the outside allows a smooth surface / thickness to sand through without hitting the mesh / mat. Beveling the edge gives you an area to feather it in.
Not sure if I explained it well - but err on the side of strength. Use epoxy resin as fiberglass resin is not as strong or stick as well. I use epoxy filler for my first skim coat as well - then poly filler.
Good luck db



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:05 am
Thanks 80-grit for taking the time to write up your techniques, some good stuff there.

Here's where I'm at now:

Image


Both sides still need some Ice and some filler where the diffusor meets the bumper and then I'll be ready to shoot it.

I appreciate all the help.
Mike

Don't Listen To Me I Don't Know What I'm Doing



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:44 pm
Apexxn - I lost the bubble on this - meaning I can't tell where / what angle that last (updated) pic is...
So if the primer part is where the gap was it must be DOB perfect.

Did it ake a lot of blocking @ 45% to square up??

Any secrets?? Lots of long board sanding - or DA??

How many skim coats - what poly filler??

Details, please :)



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:14 pm
I don't blame you for loosing the bubble since I looked and I never posted this side (left) yet..... my bad.

Here is a roughed in slightly wider shot of the left side.

Image


I used a rotary 80 grit to get it to this point.

Then spread some fg filler pretty tight and sanded with a long block 120/220.

I wanted to use a DA but too many people home and it's pretty noisy.

Then shot it with epoxy which is how you see it now.

I skimmed it with some Ice today to fill in the small imperfections. I'll fill the seam where the diffusor meets the bumper next and then sand it all again. I'll probably shoot it with some poly filler just because I like how it really smooths over anything that I missed and sand it all again.

Hopefully by next week I'll be able to lay down the base and clear.
Mike

Don't Listen To Me I Don't Know What I'm Doing



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 12:20 am
to fill small gaps, say between formica and the bumper you would use modeling clay and take your time getting it on there perfect. You can get modeling clay at WalMart in the kids craft isle for around $1-3 per pound. I use it all the time for composites work.

formica is kind of an industry standard for making molds and such... one of the many standards. Like the guys said mold release wax is the key, and many coats of it, buffed between coats, but no hard buffing just lightly.

I'll have to scroll back up and see how you did :)

Nice to see new projects going on here.

Apexn if you get customers wanting carbon fiber parts for sportbikes,, hit me up. Some people like c/f mixed with paint on the same part so who knows maybe you'll have a customer wanting something like that. My partners website is up now with our products listed www.racedout.com My website is in the works... www.visionsuperbikes.com



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 11:09 pm
Finished.

Image


Image


Image
Mike

Don't Listen To Me I Don't Know What I'm Doing



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 11:33 pm
Looks awesome!!!
Now do what I NEVER do - wax it - hit it with two coats of mold release and make a fiberglass mold of it!!!
Pull some parts and sell them suckers on eBay or or find the car website...
This guy has a one-off part folks would die for...
Great job. 80GG

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 11:51 pm
Mike, awesome job. Gotta agree with 80GG there you need to pop a mold off that and get to E-bay. Those BMW boys got the money too. I think one picture post of that thing would get you some business.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 10:16 am
What they said! That's a great idea.

How much did you pay for the red?
A man can do all things if he but wills them.



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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 5:27 pm
Mike - think this through - I know (when I finish a part) you want to get it gone - and get paid - move on. But... With all the hard work you did it's tough to recover all labor / costs.
A couple more days to make a mold won't cost much more. Even if you tape the edges to not get the messed up - hell even if you have to re-shoot it - one or two sold pays that and then some :)
Besides that you don't even have to pull a part - from the mold. You can use pics from the finished / mounted and primed part as the selling pics and when you have a buyer - make the part. VFN and US Glass take up to 6 weeks to deliver if they are out of their production cycle.
Lastly this is not a tough mold (two / three part) and since it's large and flexible a single mold will do...
No pressure :)
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