...actually a part made from a guitar as the mold. I made a guitar over the holidays and used a LOT of body and paint "skills" (if I can use that term
Came out nice flames and metal flake tinted / candy clear - My nephew was jazzed to get it.
Anyway I had to glass in the front pick-up access hole to change it from a double- wound to single-wound pick up. I cut a hole in the back and had to make a cover. The cover was really an after thought, but I had to fill the hole.
Here are the picks of how I did it. Came out nice and once painted looked like it was made for it - which it was...

Since the V-tar (Frankenstein) was done (painted) I used plastic tape to protect it from the mold process (and since it wasn't too critical and on the back side). I used car wax, applied with a model paint brush as a release agent - along with the tape. This whole thing took 30 minutes...

Very interesting! Any pics of the full guitar?

Looks great 80.

Any tips on how to get the resin to lay so evenly.

I just did another scrape guard and the toughest part is getting the entire piece to lay up evenly. I used a level on my table and the piece but it's still ends up with high/low spots.

SilverFocus - I don't have any pix of the V-Tar completed - UGH!!!
I took a video and have him jammin' on it, but... And I took pics all along the process Here are some "in-process" pix. The theme was "Frankenstein" since it was made from a lot of different parts - and I "cut and butcher" everything I own. Can NOT do out of the box - bolt on... I know it's a sickness
The string guide was my fav - like the bolt through his neck...


This is flakes and one coat clear...

This was base / inter clear after flame tips. I used fkakes and red candy tint on the black. I used the black mirror (goth) pick-up mount on final.

Here is the neck head stock. On the black I added red candy / flakes - This is BEFORE I knocked down the clear with 400 grit and laid down the final clear to bury the flames. A bud made the script to (kinda) match the Fender script.
BTW Pick-ups are SD Alnico Single Coil pick-up (front - slant mount)
-SD Screamin' Demon Humbucker pick-up (Bridge)

Apexxn.
Yes wet lay up most times is going to look like wavy-gravy. Epoxy resin does NOT lay down and you can't work it like poly filler - sorry. At least I have not found the secret. Epoxy does not kick like poly. It hardens Slooooowly - from liquid to "green" to solid. And if you try to work it in the green stage you get a gooey mess. You can use epoxy filler to the peice when it's close to hard - still can dent it with your finger nail. This give chemical bond.
For this plug I made sure the mold (guitar) was level and mixed the resin thick (added fibers) about the consistency of a milkshake. I put down a thin coat to cover the mold. I hit it with a hair dryer, which heats it and thins it at the same time. This makes it go green (harden) faster than normal. But the resin in the pot is still liquid. Once green you can "push" the resin into the corners and tabs. Then I brushed on a thin coat of resin and added the glass matt:
-One layer whole plug
-Three strips into the tabs (this was what I was most concerned to add strength to the tabs - So they would NOT break off when I popped it out from the mold.
-Another layer of glass matt to add strength and tabs.
Then added more thickened resin over to add a "gel coat" that I could sand to get flat (without going into the glass mat).
I most times use different color pigment - red, black, white, (and I have use Testors model paint, blue, yellow, silver) to either show you when you have sanded through - or to color a part. Dint need to on this tho.
What I have found is to make the part thick enough with the final layer of resin so when you sand you can flatten it with out using poly filler or a epoxy filler.
This piece is well over the boarder of the mold. It WAS a PITA to knock it down flat because I could not use a file our DA while in the mold for fear scratching the guitar - hence after thought - had I done this early on in the process.
Finally I do a lot of "tests" when messing with resins. Lot of weird "science projects" and have lots of stuff laying around to use the "extra" resin on.
-I have putty knife that has a epoxy handle (made with several coats I made to check / see if I could get the final coat to lay down with out sags / runs.
-A couple of crab knockers I've epoxied and cleared (with flakes).
-checked hardness of resin only, then one, two or three layers of glass mat over 1/4" poly board to see strength
-I've added poly filler to green epoxy to see how it smoothes out the wet lay up and if it delaminates when finishing. It WORKS!!! The "fuse" for lack of a scientific term well.

A lot of this is counter intuitive but a lot of life is.
In my experience a lot of folks that make and sell this stuff don't spend a lot of time in the field to see what can work and what can't. They tell you book answers or what they have the most of in the back to sell you.

It's not the Space Shuttle tiles or glue we are talking about or having to depend on getting us back to the earth safely

OR - more importantly the glue Gilligan found to repair the hull of the SS Minnow. It worked GREAT until he found out by accident it was water soluble. That would be a bad thing on a boat...

Sorry for the rant - Have fun and post the project!!!

Just gotta say again that job looks sick! Very nice work.