Yeah, you're looking at it in person there, so if you think it needs those cuts, go ahead. Actually that flare is fitting pretty good, body work shouldn't be too bad to get things smoothed out.

My front end is a little twisted when all together and attached to the car. But everything fits and door gaps are good. Passenger side is low 1.0 inch measured at the bumper. The twist is noticeable in the passenger fender-bumper gap. When I apply upward pressure on the bumper the whole front twists into shape.
I need to make support brackets to support the outer ends of the front bumper. Is it ok to use the support brackets to twist the front into shape and hold it?? Will twisting and flexing the SMC cause problems in the future?? Thanks DarrelK for your valuable time.!!

Not surprised about the having to "twist" stuff to get it lined up. I don't think I've built one kit car or installed one body kit that I didn't have to twist something into position. Twisting and flexing the SMC shouldn't be a problem unless these parts have been laying around for awhile. In some cases (depends on quality) SMC can get somewhat brittle with age. If that would be the case see if you can get maybe some more re-enforcement behind the area (steel, fiberglass, whatever). If your parts are newer I wouldn't worry about it.

[img] I am using self tapping sheet metal screws to tighten the flare to the rear qaurter. Whats the best technique to hold the flare flat against the steel. I want to avoid alot of ripples. Its flat totally at the screw and a little raised inbetween. Crappy pic and you can't see the flares. (Front end is coming around. A piece of 2 inch rubber goes on top of the bumper and under the front hood line.) I will post a better one of quarters tommorrow.[/img][img][/img]

Yeah, I get what you mean about the ripples between screws. I use a thick style super glue just as "liquid" tacks on the edges. I put a dot of glue and hit it with glue accelerator and push it down, hold it for a minute and it's tacked into place. My wood restoration company makes it own line of super glues in thick, med. thick, and thin plus accelerators. A comparable retail product would be like Zap, Sattelite, etc available at most hobby shops. Even Gorilla brand glues has a new super glue at Home Depot, etc. Many times I use this liquid tacking system when I'm using slower setting epoxies. You can always take a Dremel tool and grind off the super glue area later.

After bonding the flare how would you approach blending the edge? Should I feather the edge then apply adhesive Filler? Apply afhesive Filler first then feather the edge? I was going to rough up the whole area with 80 grit before using the Fisor Bonding epoxy. Do I need to use Fiberglass Mat along the edge? Hope not.

There's different ways to do this. I always prefer to glue (using the Fusor) my part in place first, make sure that's cured up, sand with 80, then apply more chopped up matt and resin over the entire bond seam out about 3 inches or so away from the seam. I leave that kind of roughed up and do my final bondo style filler and finesse out the whole area further with USC's Body Icing.
I feel the matt is needed over the seam to prevent cracking at that attachment seam. When I go to car shows I see a lot of guys that have done body kits and you almost always see cracking right at the seams because the guys just bond on the part and fill at the seam only. That's just not strong enough to prevent stress cracking from vibrations, etc.

Hello-Friday at Last and back to the car !!! I should apply the fiberglass resin"Duraglass" and then feed chopped up mat into the resin like on your Doorjam build up??? Then filler over the top?

On those doors I used the Duraglass to get my shape, then I did resin and chopped glass over that in a couple of layers to spread out the stress over a larger area. Yep, then your regular fillers go over top of that.