Fastening SMC Panels

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:15 pm
I purchased a full SMC body kit for my car. I need to drill holes and fasten the panels. I need some rec's on hardware
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 9:23 am
Sorry, I didn't catch this sooner. You really have to watch how you attach any fiberglass or SMC panel because metal hardware expands and contracts at different rates from that material. I prefer to glass in body parts like this with SMC compatible resins, matt, cloth, etc. You can attach everything in place with sheet metal screws but you must remove them when done and obviously fill your holes. Most times factories attach these panels from the inside where direct sunlight is not a problem. Fieros even use plastic rivets in a few place for attachment. On parts that I wanted removable I resin, matt, and cloth in threaded metal blocks or studs from underneath. Problem with that is you've got to have fairly substantial panels thickness or those areas can "picture" through later.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 4:49 pm
How do I build up Gaps in the SMC? Its easy to trim the SMC but I need to build up a few edges. []http://.jpg[/img]g] You can see a little of my radiator in the top left corner. Thanks for you help[i
Image
mg][/img]
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 5:06 pm
First I would take something like Duraglass or even poly foam and get the shape as a backing mateiral. Then I would use some SMC compatible resin...
http://evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=16
Next I would start adding chopped glass matt pulled apart and feed that into the resin. If you shaped over foam you'd dissolve that and add some more cloth and resin from underneath or back for strength. If you used Duraglass it just stays there.
I had to build out my door edges on my last kit build the same way. The door gaps were 1/2 inch, YIKES :shock:! Here is a pick of the build out with the Duralgass and the first layer of matt...
Image


Here' the new roughed in gap before Slick Sand, Epoxy, etc.
Image
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 5:09 pm
A better shot of radiator. The fan is on the bottom side of the radiator. The trunk floor is open. The Al shroud is only a pattern and .022'. thick(Cheap) When I have it right I will use the pattern on 3003 .062" Al[im
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g][/img] The motor is a 2500-6800RPM 400+HP 327. Roller cam and 11:1[im
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g][/img]
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 5:15 pm
How should I prepare the smooth surface of the fender. Shoud I rough it up with ??? What type of fastener sytem would you rec. for the front fenders. If I take them off its because there smashed.
You do really nice work DarrelK! I have admired your work before on this forum. I looked at your recent post before and I thought you had used Al rivets in the door jam area. Nice job!!

What tools do you use to shape the edges? Metal files or standard autobody tools-sanding boards?
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 10:54 pm
First, let me say Bravo, on the look of your work! :D
Hmm, let's see. Yep, I'd rough it up with at least 80 grit for good stick. Front fender, would be nice if you could just do some type of bolts and fender washers. If this is SMC on metal you'd kind of have to treat that like a "flange on flange" arrangement and run a thin foam strip between the surfaces that mate or you'll get noise. Guys do that on Lambo body kits with their bumpers.
As far as shaping tools, I use anything and everything! My father used to be a rough carpenter and did some metal work as well. He left me all of his hand files which are indeed handy. I do also use sanding boards, a 1 inch wide air powered belt sander, a 3/8's inch wide air powered belt sander, Dremel tool, and a smaller pad 5 inch R.O. sander. Whatever it takes.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:50 pm
My fenders don't have the same bow as the hood line. The fenders need a little more bow. Do you try to cut and bow then re-attach the SMC?
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 10:07 pm
[im
Image
g] My fender needs a little more bow to match the curve of the hood line. Can I make a series of cuts along this edge somewhat like sheetmetal? I will then reglass the edge once I get the desired contour?[/img]
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 10:25 pm
Exactly, I have to do this all the time with fiberglass kit cars. Seems like side to side dimensions are never the same. I make a series of relief cuts (in woodworking we call this "saw kerfing") and reshape the contour and glass it all up. Just remember in your case you got to make sure and keep using an SMC compatible resin for the work or you'll have big problems down the road. You've probably read it before on this forum, but the thing with SMC is that the mold release agent is cast completely through the parts not just on the surface like regular molds. Because of the heat and pressure the SMC part would never release from the mold without the mold release being IN the resin. I've seen local kids try to attach body kits that were SMC with regular resins. Parts fell off within months.
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