How much materials?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2022 1:28 pm
I am posting in the Turbine Section because, as I understand correctly, HVLP turbine use less material than traditional compressor systems as there is less overspray. Please correct me if that information is wrong.

I am doing paint and body on my '67 Convertible Mustang. This is an at home DIY job and my First time. I will be using a home built 6 stage HVLP turbine.

I'll be spraying the door, hood and trunk jambs, and underside of the hood.
I have a spare fender I will to set up my gun and practice on

My current Plan is; Filler on Metal > High Build Epoxy Primer > Base > Clear

Will try to get the filler surface leveled before spraying epoxy primer. But being my first time I don't know whether I will need to do some additional filler and blocking, and more epoxy.

Tamco's High Build Epoxy kit comes with 1 Gal of Epoxy and 1 Gal of Hardener.
Is that enough?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2022 10:02 pm
Yeah, I always get the 1 gallon size kit as that gives you 2 sprayable gallons which makes it so there is no way you are running out. On my grandson's Jeep truck conversion that got us all epoxied up just as you are doing including the inside of the bed as well. We had plenty of build to level/knockdown with our block sanding. We still had about a little over 1/2 gallon sprayable when done.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2022 7:14 pm
It looks like materials costs are creeping up. So I think I'll order my Base and Clear while I'm at it.

The base mixes 1:1 with reducer. I assume that should be enough as well?

But the clear mixes 4:1. Will the 1 gallon kit be enough?

Of course I'll be asking advice from Tamco but I called too late and got voice mail. I'll be placing my order tomorrow.

Base: https://tamcopaint.com/products/ford-ni ... 8017030224

Clear: https://tamcopaint.com/products/hc4105- ... learcoat-1

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2022 11:17 am
Yeah, base I'd think would be okay, you don't want to hammer that on, just get what is called "coverage until hiding." Base should look dull to eggshell sheen when put on right. Hmmmm... I am not sure on the clear because I have not shot that particular Tamco clear yet. I think you would be okay, but clear is where you can get a lot of variables becuase of gun technique, coats, etc.....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2022 3:28 pm
I just discovered this forum and I guess my timing is spot on. I'm still learning my Fuji q4 system but I've been painting cars on conventional systems for a long time for Carmax and Manheim auto auctions. I'm doing a custom guitar job right now and I might have some advice for your clear coat question if you haven't sprayed it already.

1.Choose the right sized fluid tip! - my turbine system (and probably yours too) requires a smaller fluid tip than a conventional HVLP gun. A 1.3mm was Way too big and caused my clear to solvent pop with multiple coats and didn't atomize correctly. I used a 1.0mm and it worked well as long as you...

2. Reduce your high solids polyurethane clear properly. Fuji recommended adding 1 part of reducer to a 2:1 high solids clear off rip and they were right. My next attempt layed like glass. (the support of the manufacturer can save a lot of money. My. 02 cents) you can use less reducer if you so choose but definitely try it out on some spray out cards first to make sure it works with your spray technique. I was spraying PPG Omni MC161 polyurethane clear and always use a slow reducer with this system cuz it heats up the material. I live in Florida

I understand that a 0.8mm tip is supposed to work too, but haven't tried because I don't have one.

-Miles

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