First Impressions Of My GTi Pro Lite

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2021 11:13 pm
Hi Guys,

Got the chance to try out my new GTi Pro Lite gun. Has a T110 cap and a 1.2 tip. just using it for clear. Shot a MS clear and used recommended setting of 2 bar (29 psi), 3 turns out from fully closed on the fluid and a half a turn from full fan. First coat, I used my same speed that I have used with my AZ3 gun. Clearly, it did not put down the same amount that my AZ3 did as it looked very light. More overspray in the booth also. 15 min later, I really slowed down my speed and it layed down a lot thicker and smoother.

I was spraying a pair of HD Trike fenders. After looking at them the next day, I think that a 800 grit sanding and a flow coat will make them nearly perfect. I feel that if I slow my speed down and or slightly increase the fluid or thin it with a bit more reducer (?).

I know with a new gun in the hands of a hack like me will be a learning curve but I was pretty happy with it for a first time.



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 1:16 pm
Update....shot clear on a bike fender with sonic Blue metallic with the GTi Pro Lite. Came out like glass. I guess I got my speed and distance pretty close (for my spraying style anyway). Very happy with this gun so far. I have an 8 piece job to do next week so hopefully I am on the right track, Thanks for al the advice.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 7:41 pm
Good to hear. They are nice guns.

Sounds like the clear may be a tad thick and/or the 1.2 tip is slowing it down a little too much. Try opening up fluid by another 1/4 to 1/2 turn or, if you have a 1.3mm fluid tip, try that.

Just small adjustments now to get it spraying perfectly.
Chris



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 8:27 pm
NFT5 wrote:Good to hear. They are nice guns.

Sounds like the clear may be a tad thick and/or the 1.2 tip is slowing it down a little too much. Try opening up fluid by another 1/4 to 1/2 turn or, if you have a 1.3mm fluid tip, try that.

Just small adjustments now to get it spraying perfectly.
I am adding around 5% reducer. In your opinion, should I open the fluid a bit or add up to 10% reducer? I feel I am so close to the perfect combo. I really looked over the fender in the light and the top surface had zero peel and the metallic just popped--better than OEM in my opinion. Always open to suggestions though--I'm just a part time painter trying to learn :)

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 10:54 pm
Adding reducer isn't always the right solution. It kinda depends.....temperature, clear, how many beers I had last night. However, with most MS clears a splash (2-5%) does often make a difference. Too much (>10%) and you risk solvent pop and blushing.

Even from gun to gun there are differences. I have two Pro Lites set up like yours (1.2mm & T110). The black one always sprays finer than the blue one. :rolleyes:

It's really hard to make suggestions in situations like this. I'm not there so I can't see what you think is fast or slow, nor can I see things like how close you are or get a sense of the viscosity of the clear. More importantly I can't see what you think is a good result and compare that to my opinion, which may be very different. Not saying you're wrong here, just that many years of doing production repair work may have me looking at a finish a little more critically than someone a bit newer to the game.

It sounds like you're very close to getting your setup right. So only make small adjustments and see how they go, one at a time. I wouldn't touch air pressure, but I would try opening up the fluid a little and possibly moving in a bit when you're spraying. About 150mm seems the sweet spot for these guns.
Chris



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2021 8:11 pm
NFT5 wrote:Adding reducer isn't always the right solution. It kinda depends.....temperature, clear, how many beers I had last night. However, with most MS clears a splash (2-5%) does often make a difference. Too much (>10%) and you risk solvent pop and blushing.

That is good to know about too much reducer--I usually go for 5-10% max. I "think" it may help the clear to flow out a bit better (?).

NFT5 wrote:Not saying you're wrong here, just that many years of doing production repair work may have me looking at a finish a little more critically than someone a bit newer to the game.


I'm pretty critical and if there is a dirt nib I miss--I have a Wife with a super critical eye--to the extreme at times, LOL.

NFT5 wrote:It sounds like you're very close to getting your setup right. So only make small adjustments and see how they go, one at a time. I wouldn't touch air pressure, but I would try opening up the fluid a little and possibly moving in a bit when you're spraying. About 150mm seems the sweet spot for these guns.
I just cleared 2 HD Trike fenders in Vivid Black. I went from 2 3/4 open on the fluid to a full 3 and tried to get a bit closer. Looked nice when I left the booth--we'll see tomorrow. I'd like to get to the point (zero peel) that all I have to cut and buff is the odd dirt nib--a lofty goal for me. Thanks for all the advice--I really appreciate it!!



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 20, 2021 10:09 am
Rebel Racing wrote:I just cleared 2 HD Trike fenders in Vivid Black. I went from 2 3/4 open on the fluid to a full 3 and tried to get a bit closer. Looked nice when I left the booth--we'll see tomorrow. I'd like to get to the point (zero peel) that all I have to cut and buff is the odd dirt nib--a lofty goal for me. Thanks for all the advice--I really appreciate it!!


Well, once I got them out the next day into the light I was very pleased with the tops of the fenders--zero peel and just a deep gloss--much better than any OEM finish I have seen. Now for the vertical side portion........more peel than I was happy with. Kinda stumped. Same clear in the cup, same technique, same time shooting, etc.. I had 3 good coats on it so after working with the 1500 wet cut and buff, I got it mirror like but I did take at least 3 hr. to get it where it needed to be. Just curious what I did wrong. Maybe it's just a learning curve going to a new gun for the clear. Any/all advice is appreciated.

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