Looking for Setup recommendations to paint my Toyota Tundra

Any questions about tools or supplies. Post your compressor/gun questions here.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2022 5:46 am
Tundra Lu wrote:I ordered 2 T110 aircaps from Fleabay thinking they were real. Sure enough, they are an exact copies of a T20 :(. I am on the hunt for a T110 air cap in the states. Also got taken for a fake GTI pro lite. Ended up buying a used like new real one on Facebook Marketplace from a local. It is the Real deal with 1.2,1.3. and 14


For exactly this reason I won't buy guns or parts on Ebay or similar sites. Usually the price is a giveaway but it's not worth the risk. Only buy from known dealers. They all have specials from time to time.

That said, I did buy a fake Pro Lite, intentionally, just to see what they were like. The "T110" cap on that was more like a HVLP cap. Actually works ok though for base coat but if anything goes wrong with it the parts aren't interchangeable with genuine, so it's in the bin.

Maybe you can lodge a claim through Ebay that you've not received what you ordered?
Chris



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2022 4:05 pm
NFT5 wrote:
Tundra Lu wrote:I ordered 2 T110 aircaps from Fleabay thinking they were real. Sure enough, they are an exact copies of a T20 :(. I am on the hunt for a T110 air cap in the states. Also got taken for a fake GTI pro lite. Ended up buying a used like new real one on Facebook Marketplace from a local. It is the Real deal with 1.2,1.3. and 14


For exactly this reason I won't buy guns or parts on Ebay or similar sites. Usually the price is a giveaway but it's not worth the risk. Only buy from known dealers. They all have specials from time to time.

That said, I did buy a fake Pro Lite, intentionally, just to see what they were like. The "T110" cap on that was more like a HVLP cap. Actually works ok though for base coat but if anything goes wrong with it the parts aren't interchangeable with genuine, so it's in the bin.

Maybe you can lodge a claim through Ebay that you've not received what you ordered?

I chalked it up as a loss but to learn from. If it is too cheap then it is too good to be true :).

Man just picked up an older ingersol rand 80 Gallon compressor and am rebuilding it as my older one is too loud. I need to get pics up of what i have done. I am having alot of fun.



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2022 3:45 pm
NFT5 wrote:There are lots of other posts covering your questions so I'll not spend a lot of time on each.

Compressor 7hp and 12.5cfm, even at 90psi? Must be Shetlands.

The Devilbiss gun(s) you have (Pro Lite I'd guess), when fitted with the TE20 aircap uses 12.7cfm and will struggle with the rating on your compressor. However, with a 1.3mm tip and T110 aircap, will have no problem. Usage is 9.4cfm.



Man you were not kidding about compressor size..lol I was using my older compressor clearing my doors all happy as the Basecoat PPG deltron went on beautiful with the Kiwami gun. I proceeded to put 3 coats of Finish 1 FC720 clear with my Prolite and TE20 aircap at 29 psi and i was happy as it was looking awesome. Do 2 coats and when i went to do my 3rd coat i seen a nice size run so i kept on clearing to finish up. The clear came out like glass but the runs and sure enough on top of the pilllars of my doors it was rough for some reason. I cleared both doors on each side from bottom to top from side to side both doors at once and i dont know if clearing both doors starting from the bottom to top caused my clear to be rough up top at the end.

I am going to sand the doors down and re-clear i am thinking. The beautiful thing is my new 80 Gallon IR compressor is up and running and omg it has alot more steam than my older one. Nameplate stickers says 20 CFM, so with this one i should have no problems. I also installed an aftercooler onto it and wow what a world of difference that setup makes. Before that cooler temps were pumping into the tank at 300 degrees Fahrenheit and now the air going into the tank is ambient so that is a big difference.


On a different note, i cannot find a T110 air cap anywhere :(.. Let me know your thoughts? My new Prolite has the TE10 and TE20 air cap. I tried the TE10 and it was real slow so moved up to the TE20.
Last edited by Tundra Lu on Thu Jun 09, 2022 4:25 pm, edited 3 times in total.



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2022 3:51 pm
Screenshot_20220603-094946_Facebook.jpg
Screenshot_20220530-225042_Facebook.jpg



This is the compressor before and after.

Compressor blue.jpg


Specs on Air pump i have:

B5900 Pump specs:
18 CFM @100psi 16 CFM @ 175 PSI.



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2022 7:34 pm
so i bought a used door from a Tundra and have been practicing on it. It seems the new compressor with 6 stage filtration i am seeing NO water out of the compressor line. I think the older compressor was giving me issues so this will be a big plus because i just sprayed the test door with the base coat using the Kiwami and the clear with the real prolite TE20 Aircap 1.3 needle and it looks like glass :). I think I am getting close and it is a happy day. :).

Where i live it is 90+ degrees and high humidity so I am using everything slow for reducer and activator and it seems good.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2022 10:20 pm
Tundra Lu wrote:On a different note, i cannot find a T110 air cap anywhere :(.. Let me know your thoughts?


They're absolutely everywhere here at prices ranging from $140AUD to about $155AUD, which is about $100-110USD. Also available from Sprayguns Direct in the UK but prices are quite a bit higher, which is kind of unusual.

Here are a couple, on Ebay, that will ship to the USA and I know only sell the real article:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/282883583846?&shqty=1&isGTR=1#shId

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/123025880631?hash=item1ca4e9f637:g:pjMAAOSwC6dZsLzO&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4EFGI4Kd8CbYzrv8qhiL5qVjNtt6bUh1YwZI5sr3UPvLx0zSwb34dmDJZnnMSN5pujFIOFaE03qNGE9iVGjnMEpgACdla8YLLpGpypmCOJV2%2BPBXsxeRhIa8JQs7uRun%2FOtFpf0CZPY29oCEOVNtzXMd9xrIETD5TjZO6bZv%2BijpdtddxhFqGcV6CqO2CiooYXf4xHLYO81y84d%2FwkCmt8HRASwK27ohTusNVa4tzt1JP%2BTkmtBw%2BJy9%2BaZgCjmrrRaS7KMbBQE1F5G9ugu3a%2FjTeQ8EWpigatfBu%2Ftr3L4k%7Ctkp%3ABFBM8ouJi6pg
Chris



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2022 8:34 pm
Chris,


Thanks, I ordered a T110 from the Australian seller on Ebay you mentioned. Also picked up a DV1 clear gun with the C1 and new C2 cap and wow this gun is awesome. Now i need to figure out how to get a slight urethane wave out of the clear on one of my doors. I successfully painted the 4 doors, front fender, and hood. The hood has the most dust so i will sand it down with 800 and re-flow coat it. I did that to the roof and it looks like glass :).

Man auto painting is addicting as heck. I keep researching guns. Now I see why folks in here have a lot of them :).

My next feat is to learn cutting and buffing. I own 2 Rupes machines and a couple of PC7424XP from my buffing days just never sanded down clear as i was always scared to. Now i am like ahh spray some clear on it.. lol

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2022 11:12 pm
You'll love the DV1. Top shelf gun. :goodjob:

Tundra Lu wrote:Now i need to figure out how to get a slight urethane wave out of the clear on one of my doors


You do realise that urethane wave, on doors, comes in 3 different axes. There's the x axis, which is commonly called a "hanger"; the y axis, usually called a "run", and the z axis, which was so bad that it ran off the panel and is now a puddle on the floor.

In the future you'll be expected to refer to these, quoting the appropriate axis, so that all the other members here can laugh at your misfortune. :wink:
Chris



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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2022 8:03 am
So i bought 2 gallons of PPG Deltron DBC 2000. Been practicing and painting with the same 1-gallon paint to get the hang of the paint i would paint on my truck. I just painted the bumper that i had bought off eBay a year ago which they had painted for me and it never matched. So i decided to strip it and put on 2K white primer and fixed all the small imperfections. It came out nice, but the white is whiter than the rest of the truck I already painted. The paint is coming from the same gallon can and i even went to Rockler to buy that stir-and-pour top to ensure i would mix it all the time before i pour it so i know it is not that. I am stumped as to why the white on the front bumper is whiter than the rest i already painted :(.
Last edited by Tundra Lu on Wed Jun 22, 2022 11:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2022 8:52 pm
White is much more "see through" than most people realise.

Did you use the same white primer on the body as you did on the bar? Same gun or a different one? Same number of coats? Same temperature when you sprayed?

White also contains the highest amount of solids, which is why it is so much heavier than other colours, but those solids also sink to the bottom of the tin, meaning that unless stirred/shaken completely it would be possible to get two jobs out of the same tin that were slightly different.

Lastly, paint works differently on metal to the way it does on plastic. It has to do with the way the substrate absorbs and holds heat and can be seen more with metallics/pearls but happens with solids too. You may have noticed that most manufacturers simply cannot get their bars (and other plastics) the same colour as the body.

BTW, there is no need to quote my entire post when replying. Just any specific, relevant bits will be fine and saves a lot of re-reading or scrolling.
Chris
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