GTi ProLite Putting Down Dry Cllear

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2022 2:20 pm
NFT5 wrote:Pro Lite atomises finer than the AZ3 so your spray is going to be more subject to wind and heat - both things that aren't a factor in your "booth". Also, even in the shade, metal temps will be higher.

A bigger fluid tip, say 1.4mm and the TE20 aircap will help but you need to get in closer in put it on a bit wetter.
Currently it has a T110 cap and a 1.2mm. 95% of my work is inside so I want the best set up for clear work on bigger parts.[/quote]

I use a 1.4 tip for clear all the time. If you apply it properly, it will lay down real nice.
1.2 is almost like shooting clear with the vent hole plugged. :wink:

Right out of the gun:
Hood Clear as Sprayed.JPG


Buffed:
Hood Buffed 2.JPG


Right out of the gun. Didn't even buff this job.
ColorasSprayed.jpg


Same here:
Retarder.JPG


The point is, you need to apply enough clear so that it flows together. It's a wet coat but not enough to run, which takes practice.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2022 3:08 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:
NFT5 wrote:Pro Lite atomises finer than the AZ3 so your spray is going to be more subject to wind and heat - both things that aren't a factor in your "booth". Also, even in the shade, metal temps will be higher.

A bigger fluid tip, say 1.4mm and the TE20 aircap will help but you need to get in closer in put it on a bit wetter.
Currently it has a T110 cap and a 1.2mm. 95% of my work is inside so I want the best set up for clear work on bigger parts.


I use a 1.4 tip for clear all the time. If you apply it properly, it will lay down real nice.
1.2 is almost like shooting clear with the vent hole plugged. :wink:

Right out of the gun:
Hood Clear as Sprayed.JPG


Buffed:
Hood Buffed 2.JPG


Right out of the gun. Didn't even buff this job.
ColorasSprayed.jpg


Same here:
Retarder.JPG


The point is, you need to apply enough clear so that it flows together. It's a wet coat but not enough to run, which takes practice.[/quote]Beautiful pics! Looks like I need a new tip. Now, considering my lower end of the skill set, do I go for the 1.3 or a 1.4mm?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2022 4:21 pm
Most of my Pro Lites are 1.3mm. I have a couple of 1.2mm which I use for MS clears and a single 1.4mm which gets used rarely.

If you have 1.2mm now then I'd go with a 1.3mm and learn how to use it. Open up the fluid flow, up the pressure a tad and go a bit slower. With the T110 aircap you'll still get a nice flat finish.
Chris

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2022 9:14 pm
I don't have Prolite spray guns so I will defer to Chris on those.

I have 1.3 and 1.4 tip sets.

Most of my work is restorations so I want more of the deep clear, show car appearance hence I like the 1.4 Iwata LPH400. It's a LVLP (low volume, low pressure) gun and requires a slower steady hand when applying clear.

My Tekna Copper has a much bigger fan and puts out more material. I like it for big jobs when temperatures are high.

When setting up any of my guns, I back the fluid knob all the way so it is not contacting the trigger. Then I pull the trigger full open and hold it there while turning the fluid knob in. Once I feel the trigger start to lift, I release the trigger and then turn the fluid knob another half turn in.

I use masking paper on the wall to adjust pressure and spray pattern. Once I get it working the way I like, I write everything down so next time it's a real quick set up.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2022 6:50 am
NFT5 wrote:Most of my Pro Lites are 1.3mm. I have a couple of 1.2mm which I use for MS clears and a single 1.4mm which gets used rarely.

If you have 1.2mm now then I'd go with a 1.3mm and learn how to use it. Open up the fluid flow, up the pressure a tad and go a bit slower. With the T110 aircap you'll still get a nice flat finish.
Thanks Chris. 1.3 is what I am going to go with and do some practice spray outs. Thanks!!



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2022 6:52 am
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:I don't have Prolite spray guns so I will defer to Chris on those.

I have 1.3 and 1.4 tip sets.

Most of my work is restorations so I want more of the deep clear, show car appearance hence I like the 1.4 Iwata LPH400. It's a LVLP (low volume, low pressure) gun and requires a slower steady hand when applying clear.

My Tekna Copper has a much bigger fan and puts out more material. I like it for big jobs when temperatures are high.

When setting up any of my guns, I back the fluid knob all the way so it is not contacting the trigger. Then I pull the trigger full open and hold it there while turning the fluid knob in. Once I feel the trigger start to lift, I release the trigger and then turn the fluid knob another half turn in.

I use masking paper on the wall to adjust pressure and spray pattern. Once I get it working the way I like, I write everything down so next time it's a real quick set up.
Thanks!! I'll take your advice on gun set up next time.
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