Spray guns 2012 Review--My new hobby

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 2:48 pm
Hey, guys!

I'm new here and excited to learn all I can about autobody. I've always been into cars, modifications, and autobody work, and my real experience with painting and autobody was in high school.

I want to get back into the scene as a hobbyist; I consider myself a DIY type of guy and I like to save money and learn in the process.

Naturally, we all want to save money and go cheap. Well, as I am older and wiser I have found out that in the long run, you end up spending more money, or not satisfied with the end result.

With that said, I am looking for a good gun for a serious hobbyist. I'm serious in the sense that I am a perfectionist I want it to end up to be a quality piece of work (it doesn't have to be perfect/pro finish. I am already accepting this. I know my first handful of attempts won't be perfect, and I know with time my skills will be improved. I want a gun that will allow me results that I can be proud of and that others will like.

When I began my search, I was OVERWHELMED to say the least. There are so many different types (HVLP, LVLP, RP, etc), different brands, and different models that I did not know where to began.

It is my hope that the list below can help someone just starting out.

I have done a LOT of reading from many different forums and I have gathered what I considered to be the consensus.

What I have learned so far:
-Don't buy a use gun on ebay or elsewhere that you can't inspect the gun. You never really know the condition of the product unless you know what you are doing when you inspect it. Rebuilds can be expensive to the point that you are 50-100 away from a new equivalent gun.

-Listed are the brands that I have came across and what I have gathered from reading:
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Devil Biss
-Make sure to get the compliant caps for better quality of base and clear (to be equivalent to Iwata LPH400).
-Models:
CVi
-Spraying wise it is equiv to a Plus.
-CVi is not as good as Plus with clear coats.
-Smaller spray pattern than Plus.
-Smaller, lighter and therefore maneuver better than Plus.
-Not so good with metallics.

SRiPro
-It is a detail gun 1mm tip, 4oz cup.

GTi Millenium 620
-It is an average/slightly above average gun.
-Overall, with regard to painting, it is not as good as a Plus.
-Can be converted to Plus with Aircap and Nozzles (fluid tips), otherwise all other parts of this is the same as the Plus.

Plus 670
-Not a HVLP. It is a Reduced Pressure gun. It does everything great, but is really good at clearing and single stage.
-This is a better spraying gun overall than the GTi.
-Harder to handle than GTi(skill level).
-Better atomization than the GTi.
-Uses less CFM than GTi.
-More overspray than Gti.
-Able to spray metallic like the GTi.
-Comes with 3 tips so it’s a bargain.

PRi
-This is a primer gun.

Tekna
-Comes in Prolite, QuickClean, and Copper.
-Considered a overall better spray gun than the Plus.
-Make sure to get the 7E7 compliant aircap to be able to spray clear like glass!
-Good for clear coats.
-Superior metallic control.
-Better blends.

Starting Line
-It is the cheapest Devilbiss has to offer. Not recommended unless you only have $100-$150 to spend.
-Comes in 3 different kits.
-Kit 1 comes with 2 guns: Painting & Touch Up (finish coat and detail) 802342
-Kit 2 comes with 2 guns: Painting & Priming (finish coat and primer) 802343
-Kit 3 comes with 3 guns: Painting (finish coat, primer, detail) 802789
Finishing Line
-A step up from the starting line.
-Delivers good quality for the hobbyist.
-There are two types in this line up.
-FLG3 require more air flow. Air Flow: 13 CFM @23 PSI Inlet.
-FLG4 Air Flow: 9.9 CFM @ 40 PSI inlet.
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Binks I don't know much about this brand.
-M1-G HVLP
-BHV is good for topcoat
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Iwata
-Considered one of the top guns.
-Overall equal to (some say it is better) than Sata.
-The Full size line up is a better gun then the GTi/Plus. It consists of three guns:
LPH400LV
LPH400LVB
LPH400LVX
-Compact line up:
LPH300LV
LPH101LVG
-The Mini (detail gun) setup:
LPH80

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Apollo Sprayers I don't know much about this brand.
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Accuspray I don't know much about this brand.
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Axis I don't know much about this brand.
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Sata
2000RP is considered to be a better gun than 3000RP.
3000RP
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Sharpee
-Carries the Finex series. The Finex series is not as good as the Finishline guns offered by Devilbiss.
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In terms of what I think are the most popular guns, I would rank (best to worst):
-Sata and Iwata
-Tekna/Cvi
-Plus
-GTi
-Finishline 4
-Finishline 3
-Finex/Startingline
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Now, I need help:

I have decided this:
-Get 1 gun for primer. Can anyone recommend me a good one?
-Get 1 gun to shoot sealer, base, and clear.
-I narrowed it down to 4 guns:
1) Iwata LPH400. I don't know the differences between LV, LVB, LVX. Please educate me on the differences.
2) Devilbiss Tekna. I don't know the difference between Prolite, QuickClean, and Copper. Please educate me on the differences.
3) Devilbiss Plus.
4) Devilbiss CVi. I don't know how the CVi is different than the Plus. Please educate me on the differences.


I would like 1 VALUE gun to shoot sealer, base, clear, and metallics using the most cost effective and route possible. I understand the Devilbiss guns that I mentioned, all you need to do is switch out the tips (1.2, 1.3, 1.8, etc). Therefore, the devilbiss is VERY cost effective.

However, I would get the Iwata if it is cost effective as well.

Please provide your inputs on:
1) Differences between the LPH400 models.
2) Differences between the Tekna models.
3) Differences between Plus and CVi.
4) Is the Iwata a cost effective route vs the Devilbiss if I want to use 1 gun to shoot sealer, base, clear, and metallics?


Thank you, and I look forward hearing from any of you and enjoying many years of this art.

TP

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:57 pm
To me this is easy. But opinions can and sure will be different.

Get a Finishline 3 with 1.8 and 2.2 tip kit. You will be set for epoxy unreduced, urethane primers, and poly primer. I have two of these guns so I know from hands on.

Teckna with the 1.3/1.4 tips (7E7 Cap) kit. You will be set for sealer, base, clear, and single stage.

I have a plus gun and 4 satas. I love my 3000s by the way. My plus is no slouch but.....

From what JaysonM has said so far on the teckna I would say go that route because of the money saved and jay's sound and positive feedback given concerning the teckna from a heavy duty daily high production stand point. Jayson has also a vast knowledge of Sata too.

I have not shot the teckna but it would be a no brainer at this point IMO to pick it over the plus hands down. I don't think you can go wrong this route. I like guns and I would prob have two tecknas if I was in your shoes. One for sealer, bases and single stage. The second would be for clear only. If it can make budget.

:pcorn:
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:34 pm
Wow, thanks Timbo!

I am leaning towards the Tekna.

I thought about the CVi, but I just can't get enough info on it; therefore, I think they might even kill the model?

Now, I have a question for you.

What is the difference between 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 etc. Besides the size :knockout: The lower the number, the slower you have to spray?

There are two options are available for the tekna:
1) 1.2, 1.3 ,1.4 with TE10 and TE20.
2) 1.3, 1.4 with TE 20 and HV30.

Which one would you pick and why?

What does TE and HV even mean?
haha



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:03 pm
Where is the Finishline made? USA? China? Germany?
Where is the Startingline made?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:05 pm
I don't know where you are looking but here is the store link. I said earlier 7E7 cap. Forget everything else you are over thinking this one. Here is your gun.....http://www.autobody101.com/content/devi ... pray-guns/
1.3 will shoot slower and be a little harder to run but I like to move fast so I would prob start with the 1.4. You can start with the 1.3 then later when you are comfortable try the 1.4
I am out.
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 3:47 pm
This is my air compressor:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_221565-14989-LL ... ct_price|1

3.7HP
60 gallon
13.4 CFM @40PSI
11.5 CFM @90PSI

Should that be enough for a hobbyist using a ProLite?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 5:35 pm
vr4_rider wrote:This is my air compressor:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_221565-14989-LL ... ct_price|1

3.7HP
60 gallon
13.4 CFM @40PSI
11.5 CFM @90PSI

Should that be enough for a hobbyist using a ProLite?


That compressor is cutting a little too close for comfort for me. If you're going to be spraying completes or using a DA heavily then it may not be up to the job. Remember that compressors are usually overrated when they state CFM output and tools are usually underrated when they state CFM requirements. So if the gun says 11 CFM @ 30 PSI you should probably get a compressor that states 15 CFM @ 40 PSI to be safe. If you can't afford another 400 dollars, maybe save for another month until you can to avoid buying the compressor and realizing you need more. A lot of guys will say that this compressor is the best bang for your buck because the pump is made in Italy instead of China which would come on all other compressors in the price range.

http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Bel ... p4839.html
Last edited by ChunkyLover53 on Fri Aug 10, 2012 5:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 5:36 pm
You are going to be on the hairy edge with that compressor and any HVLP gun, so I would not recommend the FinishLine (which is made in Mexico). StartingLine - I'm not sure where it is made but it is really not a gun that has found favor with this crowd so I don't even bother stocking it.

To answer your other questions, the TE10 and TE20 air caps generally come with the ProLite version of Tekna. TE10 is good for basecoats and low-solids (thin) clears -- it produces a coarser atomization than the TE20, which is a is a good general purpose cap and a lot closer to the 7E7 cap on the Tekna copper I stock. The HE30 cap is HVLP and I would recommend you avoid that one; you will be fighting it to dial out orange peel and your compressor will be on its knees.

I don't stock the ProLite because (in my opinion) it doesn't differentiate itself from the Copper enough to merit the extra cost.

I spent a lot of time reflecting on the needs of the folks who frequent this site, and a lot of time with the guys at DeVilbiss -- and believe that the Tekna Copper with the 1.3/1.4 tip and 7E7 cap is really the sweet spot in terms of versatility and price. Tekna is made in England. 1.3 is a great base tip and 1.4 is a very good general purpose tip you can shoot base with or clear.

The tip numbers indicate the diameter of the opening. The larger the diameter, the faster you can get material through the gun and onto the car (which is not always a good thing). Larger diameter tips are also needed for "heavy bodied" or high viscosity materials such as sprayable filler and many 2K primers. Sizes of 1.8mm up to 2.2mm are not uncommon for that.

Hope this helps.



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 6:46 pm
Hi, ChunkyLover and Chris. Thank you for your informative posts!

Chris, do you have "black Friday" sales? If you do, I can save up and get a better compressor AND be right in time for the sale!

I will be doing mostly panel-painting. I won't be spraying a complete car under 1 period. I'll do multiple sections mainly because of not having enough room.

I read that compressors have running HP and peak HP.

I was surprised to see that a 3.7hp (must be running, and not peak) can produce that much CFM at that pressure. Even the 6hp Craftsman I found only had 8.4CFM@90.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 8:00 pm
Sorry, no special sale pricing on these guns for the foreseeable future. Margins right now on these would make a jr wal-mart exec twitch, and in fact DeVilbiss just dialed in a price increase on most of their guns which put even further pressure on margins. I believe my price on that Tekna copper with cup is pretty competitive...
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