Fuji mini mite 3 - good setup for auto painting?

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 10:29 am
You will almost always have to do some reducing/thinning to the mix not just because of viscosity but the "warm air" in the mix. It's the physical difference in the way that these turbine guns operate and the way compressed air operates. Coating manufacturing is engineered around the fact that cold compressed air is dumping out in to a warm atmospheric condition with a compressed air gun. It is the rapid expansion of this cold air that expands and atomizes the liquid coming out of the tip. The warm air stream of the turbine system can depend only on the high volume of air to help atomize the liquid coming from the fluid nozzle. Coatings are designed to shoot for the most popular systems out there which are compressed air. When you are reducing/thinning you are making that liquid more "compatible" with your turbine system.
Now some of this has changed over the years as more HVLP compressed air guns and that 10 p.s.i. cap pressure limit was enacted. Some coatings may need nothing to go through your system, others will need adjusting. My wood shop 4 stage guns need no liquid adjusting to shoot a 48% high solids catalyzed coating with a pot pressurization of about 10 p.s.i. If I was around 8 to 8.5 p.s.i. on the fluid pressure I would probably be in the 2 to 5% thinner range.
You will just have to "play" around with this.....
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 11:01 am
Great info, thanks again.

Ok, so if I am trying out a particular base, clear, or single stage for the first time with the turbine I should follow manufacturers specs on mixing and try a couple of test sprays then if required I should thin and test again? It is possible that it could be fine without thinning?

Sorry for this basic question but what liquid would I be using to thin a base, clear, or single stage?

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 11:20 am
Yes, always start with manufacturer's rec.s, do sprayout, then adjust. Some stuff (clears and bases usually) may not need adjustment. What you thin/reduce with is layed out in the Product Sheet (P. sheet) for that product. All coatings have physical P. Sheet you pick up at your dealer or are available online. If a material does not have a listed reduction agent call the 1-800 number on the P. sheet for help.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 4:22 pm
onboost wrote:That was a great deal! Wish I would have seen your post sooner.

I have been looking at all the options and I think I'm getting closer to a decision. Basically, I'm between the Sprayfine 3 stage or the Fuji 3 stage.

One thing I've read a couple times was regarding thinning of the materials in order to spray properly through these turbine systems. I am wondering if with either of these 3 stage units I will have to thin out the base coat, clear coat, or single stage?


I had the same decision to make and ended up going the sprayfine unit. I already had some guns so didn't need a package deal. I latter purchased a fuji spray gun. I had some problems with getting as good a finish with this one as my older one at first.

I always thin more then what is said on the instructions and use a slow reducer. I also live in a warmer area. I have sprayed high build primer through one of my guns with not to much problem but prefer my compressor gun for this purpose. Most of my painting is using 2K paint for a car. I am no expert at all just my experience.



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 11:27 pm
Thanks for the input composite. Yup, I don't have any turbine compatible guns that's why I think I'm better off buying a kit ...price wise. My only issue with the sprayfine kit is that their guns are siphon and use a j adapter to make them gravity feed. If I buy the sprayfine 3 stage turbine only and then buy the to gun plus hose I'm basically at the price of the Fuji kit.

Is your sprayfine a 3 stage?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 11:37 pm
yes a 3 stage system



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 9:37 pm
This place sells SICMO spray guns at a great price and have all different aircaps and needles. I got mine from them and it works great.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/966-Gravity-Fee ... 2598f9baf6

The company is CJ spray, I belive they used to be called Criox. Get a 1.0 or 1.2 needle with a .5 multi hole fine finish aircap.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 10:41 pm
Uhhh.... seriously, have you ever seen a REAL Sicmo gun???? If guys want to buy a Sicmo clone gun why not save some bucks and buy a more accurate copy with a track record....
http://www.tptools.com/TP-Tools-ProLine ... l?b=d*8051
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 11:52 pm
I have the compared them side by side, the gun block needles and internal passages are all the same, the fluid adjustment knob looks different, and yes I do own a SICMO. CJ spray says they are from the same assembly line as SICMOs

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 1:56 am
I get it.... your pictured gun is NOT like the one you listed in the ad. The one with your red EXTERNAL insulated handle is indeed a more accurate clone of the original SICMO guns. The one you listed in the ad has a type of more internal restricted gun handle which we see being used for higher pressure multiple stage turbines. Some guys like them, some don't especially if they are running older 2 and 3 stage turbines. Your red handled gun there can flow more cfm than the one pictured in the ebay ad. All I am doing is pointing out that there are a lot of different variations out there on the original SICMO design and the tooling has obviously been dumped around to several different manufacturers with variations on the "theme." I own 7 Sicmo guns collected over 32 years.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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