As I mentioned in my earlier post, I'm an old school painter. I'm used to spraying at 60psi with a big fan, about 10 in away and fairly fast passes. On watching some youtube vids, a lot of these guys are spraying really close to the panel, looks like 4 or 5 inches. It seems like this would take all day to paint a car, not to mention streaking. Am I missing something?
Also, do the Iwatas and Satas output more material than other guns like the Teknas?
I thought about getting a Prolite but after watching the vids idk.

BTW... I'm NOT a troll I'm 60yrs old and thought I'd painted my last overall ...should have known better, got about 6 cars and a who knows what else after I finish this corvette. Been painting small stuff, bikes etc... all along but using my Finex guns or Binks 7 I am actually getting a bit enthused about painting again. I'll prob buy used as I'd rather spend 300 on a used Iwata than a new gun of lesser quality.

Ha,ha..... I like this.... I'm just a little older than you and also grew up in the time of a Binks # 7 gun being about the only thing that you used. I have pressure washers that are more efficient than those guns..... It's a brave new world so welcome to the abbreviated gun systems.....HVLP, LVLP, RP, and that's without going into turbine systems. Nowadays (started back in the early 80s) it is all about transfer efficiency. On a good day that old Bink might get 35% of what was in the cup transferred to the surface. I have wood finishing guns that are up in the 93%+ rate on what goes on to the surface. Cleaner for YOUR environment and tremendous cost savings (have you been watching paint prices go through the roof!) And yes, these guns have you shooting closer and slower. And yes, the pro guns do put out more material which does allow you to move faster than the cheaper hobbyist guns. Production guys need production guns to keep the work moving and reduce booth time.
I do agree with you about choice of guns. Iwata and Sata guns are probably going to be easier for you to adapt to because it will still allow you to move rapidly. There are a lot of great deals on used guns out there as people move in and out of the auto refinishing business and also update their guns. I'd especially be on the lookout at Craigslist, Let Go, Offer Up as you kind also find a lot of hobbyists that never even took their guns out of the box. I once bought over $1200 worth of guns for $50 in a box. Guy used them once or twice and took them all apart cleaned them, and just threw all the parts in the box....... Seriously, what an idiot......

Hey thanks Darrel!
Do you think I'd be ok using my Sata 2000 digital hvlp to spray base and clear on a really nice 71 vette? Inferno Orange metallic b/c. I have 1.4 and 1.5 setups and a wsb. Gun is like new. With wsb I couldnt get a good pattern out of it. Better with the 1.5 I think. Have good filtering and air supply.
I was painting a TR6 a few years ago, B/C, and I couldn't get the WSB to what I wanted, ended up spraying it with a dang B7! Came out slick too. But I really would like to spray a nice job with at least a good hvlp gun. This sata looks too nice to be a dud. And this Vette has to look nice... If the gun is a compromise, I'll get something else.

Gee, well I would think you could get that to work out. Painter Dave might jump in here and be of a more help with this. I can't remember, is Inferno a tricoat? I am the alien painter in the bunch here since I use turbine systems in both wood and metal finishing. I also use LVLP guns as well.

yes that 2000 is still a amazing gun, 1.4 would be my choice on a complete.

where do you live ? how hot is it ?

Great advice above.
I would add one word of caution. Make sure your compressor puts out enough CFM to run the guns your are interested in.
Some of these guns require a fair amount of volume in the air department in order to atomize the paint correctly.

Dave,
I live in SW Ga. Not too bad down here, 90's this past week, 104 in the shop.

R/T, I have a 6hp 60 gal upright. I think 14cfm at 90psi. I'll have to shorten the hose path to my back area where I'll paint the car, but no prob there. No prob keeping up with my old Souix DA and air nozzles.
Thanks for the help.

104 in the shop???? Man, I'd be shootin' at night with that....flash times would be just about non-existent..... How fast does bondo kick in there?
On the compressor thing, I won't kid you, with a lot of these newer guns even that compressor is right on the edge of not enough. I like a 7.5 hp with an 80 gallon tank, gives me a max cfm up around 27. I think your compressor will probably keep up but it will run almost constantly on a complete job especially if you are moving fairly fast. Another side effect is you might find that you are managing more moisture than you did in the past.....

DarrelK wrote:104 in the shop???? Man, I'd be shootin' at night with that....flash times would be just about non-existent..... How fast does bondo kick in there?
On the compressor thing, I won't kid you, with a lot of these newer guns even that compressor is right on the edge of not enough. I like a 7.5 hp with an 80 gallon tank, gives me a max cfm up around 27. I think your compressor will probably keep up but it will run almost constantly on a complete job especially if you are moving fairly fast. Another side effect is you might find that you are managing more moisture than you did in the past.....

Wow ok, I'll def take that advice.
Bondo kicks in FAST! Have to get the learning curve down. Anything catalyzed goes quick. Humidity up pretty good too. At least I don't have to use much at the time. On this corvette I've done a bit of glasswork here and there, mostly just maintenance, loose joints and cracks, fixing "bubba's" repairs etc... but no trouble getting resin to kick off