Do I NEED a gravity feed gun with 5 stage Fuji Turbine ?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 1:15 pm
Hello everyone! I recently picked up a barely used 5 stage Fuji Q5 turbine with two T70 bottom feed guns for !!$500. I mainly use it for spraying cabinets with "latex" but would like to venture out for a few automotive projects. Still in the research stages here trying to figure out what brands of paint to use, guns, reducers, tip sizes etc.

One of my main questions at the moment is whether or not I can get decent results with the T70 bottom feed guns that I have and avoid spending another $330 for the gravity T75. I know typically people recommend gravity feed guns because they might be better for thicker materials. However since I already have two of the bottom feed gun (they do have a pressurized cup) I would like to use them if possible.

Just for context I would only occasionally be painting automotive urethane, I plan to repaint an old work truck I have and maybe the hood on my DD Acura.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 11:11 pm
That's a good powerful turbine, you'll be fine with those guns. Considering what you are doing I'd save my money. I have 5 similar guns just like those in my wood shop and we drive them with the 4 stage version of that motor. I have several high solids (45% plus) hybridized materials that I use in them, no problems. Keeping your hose length minimized will keep your gun/cap pressure maximized.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 8:48 pm
Thanks DarrelK I was hoping I would get a response from you! Been reading through and saving notes from lots of your comments on here!

The turbine came with a short high temp leader hose, a 25' hose factory fuji hose plus a whip hose. Do you think this is too long? From reading on here It sounds like I might want to put a section of the hose in an ice bucket to keep the air temps down. I am really curious what the actual PSI is, do you know of a gauge I could buy to accurately measure it?

P.S. I did a full tear down of the turbine out of curiosity to see how it was setup. Below is the motor it uses if you're curious.
http://www.steam-brite.com/electro-motor-q6600099a-vacuum-stage-volt-57in-p-92350.html
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FeGF6th2c1HHZGjz9
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Last edited by Roger505 on Sat Dec 01, 2018 12:12 am, edited 1 time in total.



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 9:35 pm
Well after my post I got to thinking I might be able to use my waterline pressure tester retrofitted with a smaller PSI scale gauge I had. Not sure how accurate this gauge is but looks like it could be pretty close. I'm only seeing like a 1 psi drop after adding the 25' hose but not quite the 9.5psi advertised.

With High temp hose only
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wAKurBv5UQkwp3Zr8

Image


With High temp hose+ 25' (below)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pxoeQfxG48QiPH4B9
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Last edited by Roger505 on Sat Dec 01, 2018 12:11 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 11:10 pm
Hey, your pic.s aren't showing up..... On the gauge thing....back "in the day" I actually had a couple of testers provided to me because I was a turbine systems dealer. One would test pressure at the turbine outlet and another was for measuring pressure at the air cap. I turned those back in to one of the companies I was dealing with. The general rule of thumb with almost all the full size industrial turbines is that they were making 1.5 to 2 psi per turbine wheel stage. We were seeing those number at the turbines. You normally would only get drops of significance once you went past the 25 foot mark, more like 50 foot or more. And me?, I always made my own more rigid hoses out of spa hose, kept them at about 20 to 25 foot and put the turbine on it's own cart, added some more filtering to the housing, and let it follow me around the car as I shot. If you do that though it is essential that you have good air flow through your booth area.

As for the hose in a bucket thing.... depends.....newer motors are using different materials in their turbine wheels so they are not overheating as much. You can also pretty easily adjust air temps by simply putting some freezer packs by your intake on the turbine itself. For no longer than a complete shoot is on a car I've never needed more than freezer packs myself. The reason that works well is because you have to remember the way a turbine works is....it is taking what ever that ambient temp. is and then adding increasing temp.s If you start with colder ambient to begin with well..... it takes much longer to overheat it.....
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 12:16 am
I added links to the pics above them, they show fine on my end so I'm not sure what the deal is.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 9:52 am
Yeah, I looked at the links. I'd say that gauge probably just isn't that accurate at lower pressures. Even at that it still is within the normal parameters of 1.5 to 2 psi per stage. Manufacturers almost always just state a flat 2 psi per stage in most of their advertising.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 7:26 pm
Thanks Darrel for the feedback! I think with the money saved from getting a gravity feed gun I might get a 3M PPS add on for one of the T75 guns.

I'm still not sure what paint I plan to use, which I know is a factor here but do you think I would be able to paint this truck with just a gallon of each primer, base, & clear?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oYgz9SwTeqpfDNANA

Also would you recommend I stick to a medium solids clear? Main factors being lack of experience and shooting with a turbine. For clears i've been looking at tamco, ********** & Matrix clear lately. I really want something with good UV protection being in North Carolina and sitting outside 24/7.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 1:08 am
Okay, so the truck looks pretty decent and you are going to be using a turbine.... I'd hit Chris with a PM here about getting a quote on Tamco base coat. With a premium base coat like that, their primer, and Universal Clear you will be fine. I've now shot several fenders, hoods, decklids, etc., with the Universal and it works the best with turbines. I like it better than the Ess Pee Eye stuff as the clear is harder and does have great UV resistance. Pricing is pretty great on the Tamco, it ships fast, no tax, and no shipping.....those things add up.....
Oh, and on the clear coat thing....just an opinion, but the Tamco Universal clear handles more like a medium solids material with a turbine but is truly a high solids premium clear. Just make sure if you order it to get the reducer for it. Just a slight tweeking is needed to get the flow out darn near perfect.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 3:37 pm
Thanks Darrel I will look into those suggestions! Also the tuck does look ok from a distance however here are a few more pictures I just took showing the clear coat failure. Of course certainly much better than dealing with rust.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Er1Fic95XbPpeaf38

P.S. on your gun what size tips are you generally using for primer, base & clear? Currently I have 1.3mm and 1.8mm tips
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