well in all my years it never crossed my mind to make these blocks be able to contour to the large radius parts we work on, maybe this will help some others.

Cool Idea
Used to do the same thing to wood too make wood bend in a radius to make seats for Jet Boats.

I like that! And I am going to copy it.

I had previously purchased a Karebac Flex-Block and found that it didn't "Flex" enough for whatever project that I had going. So I sliced one thinner parallel to the H&L surface making it thinner. Still use it a lot.

Thanks for posting that idea.

OldFatBald wrote:I like that! And I am going to copy it.

I had previously purchased a Karebac Flex-Block and found that it didn't "Flex" enough for whatever project that I had going. So I sliced one thinner parallel to the H&L surface making it thinner. Still use it a lot.

Thanks for posting that idea.

**** thats a good idea too. i will probably

Ha, ha......this is good. Okay, so believe it or not this is exactly how we straighten "compression sets" in antique woods. We pulled the top off a 400 year old English hunting chest once with all the boards letting loose and bowing up about 6 inches at each end. We do linear saw cut starting and ending about 2 inches from each end. Then we use angle irons with bolts through them to get them straight. Then we can just backfill the kerfs with slow setting epoxy mixed with short hair fibers.
Gotta say, Dave, that is pretty cool with the sanding blocks.

Will this allow the flat side to stay flat or will there be lines when contoured? I take it as long as the cuts are kept at 50% of the block thickness it will contour and not allow for lines where the block bends? I hope this question makes sense as I can picture what I'm trying to say in my head!