Hi guys,

I'm new around here and this is actually my first question.

I'm about to buy a Fuji Mini mite 5 and the plan is to use it for woodworking and autobody, I was considering to have one gun for WW since I use mostly water based/born finishes and other for autobody, Fuji sells the guns only, but I was wondering if there another brand that sales compatible guns a little cheaper? (The fuji ones are on the expensive side).

I"m completely new to autobody, want to start learning and practice with a few panels that I can get.

If you're wondering I have a small pancake compressor whith a Sprayit SP3300 (the compressor can barely keep up turning on every 30 secs or so, but does the job) and a Homeright HVLP gun which I use for larger sufaces.

Thanks for any advice!

Welcome aboard....so okay, Fuji 5 stages are a very versatile system which will indeed work fine for what you want to do. Keep the gun that comes with that system for automotive and consider purchasing one or more guns from Sprayfine for your wood stuff. Hit this page and look down near the bottom and you will see several styles of gun which work well with most any woodworking stains/coatings.....
http://www.turbineproducts.com/brands/S ... t=featured

Another used gun that would work well are the older Sicmo guns (these can be original guns or the later "clone" guns). I have 7 of those set up for various wood stains and coatings in our restoration shop. We even combo those up with 5 gallon pot feeds for our catalyzed clears.

Thanks for the advice!

As they are compretitors I thought that perhaps the fitings were incompatibles (you know how it is). The fact the the sprayfine is a bleeding type and fuji use non-bleeding gun does not matter? (my bet is it doesn't matter, but it should if we try to use a fuji gun with a sprayfine turbine because of the bleeding stuff)

I was thinking also to buy the 1.8 mm cap set for thicker finishes and primers or is is better the 2.0?

The fittings should be okay, but I would just pop that question to the Sprayfine guys just to make sure. As to the bleeder/non bleeder issue. Turbine systems were always bleeders as it allowed the turbines to settle down/warm up without backpressuring them. A lot of guys switching from regular compressed air found the bleeding unsettling so turbine people just put a back pressure port or valve in their systems. Personally, for wood finishing, I still prefer a bleeder set up for wood finishing.
Okay, so you probably don't want to here this but.....I do not like to shoot primers or other "thick" materials with turbine systems. Even the higher power industrial 6 stage+ systems don't handle them as well as a good ole' cheap 2.0 tipped conventional gun. Now I get it.....you obviously don't have a decent compressor so everything has got work from your turbine. If you are not going to be using any poly primers (example: Slick Sand, Feather Fill, G2, etc.) I'd get the 1.8. If you are going to be shooting poly primers now and then I'd go 2.0.

I considered a bigger compressor because it will work for both, but I don't have the room (neither the wiring for a 220v for example) and actually after getting the turbine I think that will change my pancake for a small California like this it is enough for the nailers and blowing sawdust from time to time.

I wonder, why don't you like spraying thick materials with the turbine? because of the low PSI?

Turbine systems just don't handle really high solids primers well because, yes, the lower psi. I also just prefer to keep the messy primer in my crappier guns. Another thing you really have to watch out for with turbine systems is using those poly primers. Fuji has somewhat addressed the heat build up in their systems but even at ambient temps. poly primers will kick a lot faster in a turbine system than with conventional air spraying. Bottom line....hot turbine= hot air supply+ poly primer= Grainy poly primer coming out of gun and possible premature hardening of poly primer IN your cup.

Is great to know the limitations ath this stage (I haven'teven started yet). In this case urethane and epoxy primers will do the job?

One of the projects I'm going for is my truck wheels. They have a little rust, does it need a rust protective/inhibitor before the primer? (that's what I'd do with any metal stuff)

Sorry if I'm asking too much, but I find this sobject very fascinating

I think most wheels are best media blasted, and then sealed up with epoxy, then into regular automotive bases/clears. Most of us prefer to completely get rid of rust rather than trying to "treat it." Epoxy then seals off it's "fuel" which is the air. No fuel....no more rusting.....

I'm gonna read more about epoxy sealers. My guess is that I'll go for the epoxy sealer on bare metal and urethane primer (generally speaking, not only for this project).

Thanks for all the information!

Yeah, you are on the right path with those materials choices...... and yes, read, read, read. If you can get your hands on some Paintucation Videos those would help as well. Seeing guys doing spraying (gun speed, distance, walking the car, etc.) can help. Turbine spraying itself is a little different animal as well. We are usually a little closer with our guns and slightly slower. You should get a viscosity cup with your set-up....that should be your new "religion" for adjusting your materials with reducers......