It took me at least 4 hours of reading to even decide which adhesive to use for a vinyl top and the most I was able to glean from all that was that with whichever glue to use a "large tip."
What would be a good size tip for this snot, Dap Landau Top and Trim adhesive?
Plenty of comments about just using a cheap gun and consider it throw away before long but the largest Ive seen in the HF purple line is 1.5. Anyone have a part # for a larger one? Or another el cheapo idea for this use.
I have a 1.8 but not sure if the adhesive actually harms them by nature or if its just a bear to clean afterwards. So, Im looking for suggestions.
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Okay, so I looked up the tech. sheet and the msds sheet on this stuff. It is not much different than most of the solvent based contact cements that we use in woodworking presently. The stuff is only about 19% solids with everything else be primarily, acetone, toluene, and hexane. I used these types of synthetic rubber cements in many type of guns over the years. There is a cheap siphon gun from China that is on Ebay now and then (sold from Canada mostly) that has a 3.0 tip and sells for like $25 or so. Can it wreck a gun? Well, not if you do your shoot and immediately break the gun down and do a thorough clean. Forget about your gun for a week.....nahhhh, now your talking paperweight..... Hey, something we started doing with some of our higher solids glues a few years back....shoot them with a cheap airless.....we have one of these hanging around the shop.....
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-gph-ele ... 63452.html I always thought that some of the contact cements shot more like a latex so I picked up one of those. I take the cup off and use a longer poly tube to pick up directly out of a gallon can......works pretty slick...clean up is easy.....
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That HF gun comes with a flow cup and has specs for how viscous the material should be. I don't have that adhesive on had yet to judge its viscosity, So I dont think i want to mess with thinning the stuff. If this top comes up I'm going to be out ~$300 in a do over so I'd like to stay full strength and full heat resilience. In Texas using a black top.
I don't know enough to judge but is that considered "large" Like I say the only references I saw to them was use a big one. I also assume there is a point where its too big, I just dont know. The sheets I saw made no mention either. Just that they can be shot hot or cold.
I just watch a utube video from a person that does them regularly that they don't even clean the HF gun. When they spray poorly toss it and open another, LOL. I like their center out method instead of half at a time.
But also their "glue" looks very very thin.
Neither do I, so I scrounge and save where I can. Doing my good deeds is its own reward. Some people that profess to be our friends though....
I have played with that Glue before
Your gonna have too thin the heck out of that stuff to spray it! Its pretty thick goop. Thinning It wont affect its ability of holding power on the vinyl in fact less glue is better. Thinner even applications are better. At least two full even coats on vinyl and the metal each. I would use a very large spay tip like a 1.8 and thin the glue. Smaller tip will require more solvent to be used. Also chose the solvent that the glue is made from acetone, toluene Like Darrel said.
You want thin even coats of glue
I like to apply the glue to both sides the Vinyl and the roof top and let it fully dry on both, Then fold vinyl in half place in position and starting on center-line of car dampen the glue with Thinner on a clean rag or sponge, a small light mist of solvent in a water mist sprayer also works good for the larger flat areas.
You just want too to soften the glue and make it tacky again do not drown it.
Press vinyl down the center line first then work your way out to the sides and front then around the rear glass, It sounds easier than it is.
I like having the glue fully dry it allows me to move the vinyl around before activating it with solvent, and then its only the damped area that gets tacky again.
Doing the large flat areas of the roof is easy its around the rear window especially under and around the rear window that's hard to get strait.
Takes a lot of stretching and pulling to get it right , Don't over stretch it though easy to go to far and damage the vinyl fabric on the back side.
When applying the solvent if its not tacky enough it wont hold and if you get it too wet or over soften the glue it wont hold the stretch.
I also like to use my Stanly Steamer to soften the Vinyl.
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Here is a Good video on the subject.
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