Stud Welder

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2020 5:56 pm
Hey guys,

I am considering buying a good quality stud welder (pin welder) for autobody work. I only do the work as a hobbyist, but I appreciate good quality tools. As such, I am not interested in the harbor freight unit. I have used it, and it does a decent job, but I have used nicer ones I like better. That said, I don't want or need to spend thousands on this purchase.

I have been looking at the H&S and Motorguard ones in the $200-$400 range. Does anybody have an opinion on either of these units or some advice on something else I should be considering? I like solid quality and versatility!

Let me know what the collective mindset is!

John



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2020 8:44 pm
I have the Spotter JR. 4000, its probably 35 years old. i've used the heck out of it and a lot of my friends have to, and it still works perfect. it comes with a steel case and a nice slide hammer. be sure to get the shrinking attachment and the attachment for the molding pins. you may never use the pin attachment unless you happen to work on an older vehicle but its handy if you need it. the Spotter came with all that stuff.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2020 1:18 am
Awesome, thanks for the info!

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:20 am
I have an older model but can't remember the name. Bought it used about 10 years ago and it works great. I'll check out the brand later today.

They are also good for shrinking metal in areas where oil canning is a problem. They make a heat tip for it and you super heat a spot and then cool it with compressed air.

This is a 1967 CJ5 hood that someone tried to stop oil canning by covering with body filler.
Notice the rust under the filler and hence the reason epoxy primer should be the first thing on bare metal.
Oil canned metal.JPG


Here you can see the heated spots from the spot welder as I work in a circle shrinking the metal:
Shrinking Oil canned Metal.JPG


Finished:
Windshield Front Left.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2020 5:10 pm
Wow, that is really nice work. So, is that how you remove oil-canning? Start at the outside edge of the dent and work your way in?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2020 9:47 pm
It really depends on the size of the area you are working on. Smaller areas may only take one or two spots in the center to firm up.
This was a fairly large area.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2020 12:49 pm
Oil cans are Tricky! Shrinking is not always the cure stretching may also be required as well.
Each oil can is different and must be analyzed before a repair attempt is made.

I have two different stud guns I bought years ago one new and the other used as a back up.
The one I bought new was a Matco the used one was a Stinger.
Both are good guns, I use the Stiger more for unknown reasons?
But I would rather have a different machine now as my skills have grown and I have found need for a more versatile and flexible more powerful machine, such as the ones pictured here:
https://www.dentfix.com/steel
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2021 1:27 pm
Finally got around to looking at my stud welder.
It's a Uni-Spotter Deluxe: https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/produc ... elder-guns

Bought mine used for $150.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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