New gun for show quality results *SORRY*

Any questions about tools or supplies. Post your compressor/gun questions here.

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 1732
Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2012 4:46 am
Location: Canberra
Country:
Australia
PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 8:01 pm
If you, and your customer(s) are happy with the finish you're producing then there really isn't much point in changing, IMHO.

The ProLite will waste more paint though overspray from the wider fan than the AZ3 when painting small parts, so it will cost you more in an ongoing sense, as well as the initial purchase.

Frankly, I like the AZ3. For front bars especially it is my "go to" gun. Easy to clean and super reliable with way less fussy, fidgety small parts.
Chris



Fully Engaged
Posts: 136
Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 12:30 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 8:20 pm
NFT5 wrote:If you, and your customer(s) are happy with the finish you're producing then there really isn't much point in changing, IMHO.

The ProLite will waste more paint though overspray from the wider fan than the AZ3 when painting small parts, so it will cost you more in an ongoing sense, as well as the initial purchase.

Frankly, I like the AZ3. For front bars especially it is my "go to" gun. Easy to clean and super reliable with way less fussy, fidgety small parts.
Sounds good....I guess I am always anxious to learn new equipment and if the result gives me a better "product" then I am all for it. I guess it's one of those things that I really don't need, but kinda "want". When the time comes for the ProLite, what would you recommend with the T110 cap, a 1.2 or a 1.3 tip for clear?

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 1732
Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2012 4:46 am
Location: Canberra
Country:
Australia
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 3:36 am
Depends on your clear. Yesterday I used some new clear - MS, 2:1, not reduced. Grabbed the ProLite with 1.3 tip and T110. Beautiful!

The clear I usually use is reduced about 5% and the 1.2mm tip works better with that one.

Devilbiss have an online guide that details which tip to use with which cap in varying conditions. Worth a search to find it and have a squiz.
Chris



Top Contributor
Posts: 5154
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm
Location: Pahrump NV.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 11:44 am
NFT5 wrote:Not disputing your opinion Dennis, but OP's link was to a Tekna Pro-Lite that came with a 900ml aluminium pot, 2 x aircaps (TE10 & TE20) plus 3 x fluid tips. That's 6 different combinations - more than enough to cover any base/clear situation.


For $USD520 that's an amazingly good deal. Street price here for a Pro Lite runs around $AUD580 ($USD446). That's gun only. No cup, no extra aircap and no extra fluid tips. The extras, by my calculations, add up to around $USD450 worth of extra value. So that's $USD970 worth for $USD520.

The SATA 5000/5500 and the Iwata WS400 are great guns. No argument there. But they're both firehoses compared to almost any Devilbiss. They're also much heavier and both are MUCH more expensive. More importantly, they're a bit slower so tend to suit those a little less experienced than you or I. They're certainly capable of show quality finishes, although, as I said above, I'd add the T110 aircap.

Cheapest WS400 I could find with a very quick check was $AUD660 ($USD508) - but that's the basecoat gun only with no extras. Clearcoat versions about 10% more.

So, to go Iwata, OP would need to spend close to $USD1100 to get base and clear guns
with just a single size in each.

I have a number of Devilbiss and Tekna guns, up to about 10 years old. Some used daily. Never had a single packing seal fail. In fact, the only failure I've ever had was on the FLG5 which blew an air seal for some unknown reason. Cheap enough fix and no problem since.


Your Lucky Not to have experienced the Devilbiss "DRIP!" NO Fun fixing those when they happen. It's happened to me more than once or twice! enough to throw the dang thing at the wall!
I am not saying the Gun or the Sale price for what a Buyer gets is not a good deal as I got a similar deal on my Current Devillbiss guns, As entry level guns BUT I only paid $300 or so for a pair with mutiple fluid tips, for $500 I would be looking at other guns including spending a few more bucks too get a better gun to start with.

I paid ruffly $300 for My GTI and FLG combo I got multiple fluid tips with each and even purchased some extras with them, I also purchased a 670 Plus for clears at the same time as well and at ruffly $300 for it it wasn't a bad deal at the time.

BUT In my experience a Single Gun with a 1.4 fluid tip is all I use for Epoxy, Base coat and for Clear! a smaller fluid tip doesn't really give the coverage for completes and it goes slower, A guy doesn't really need the smaller tips OR multiple guns to do most work even small stuff in my opinion.
Now if your trying to match Factory finishes and do blends to match stuff that's another story! Then ya you need all the different Tips and air caps But still a novice will be still chasing his tail trying to get a perfect match in most cases.

I like to use the GTI for Base coats But its really not necessary my 670 Plus is more than capable of laying out metallic paints or solids nice and smooth, and in all honesty it sprays clear just as nice as the Plus gun.

Knowing what I know now I am looking for a Sata or Iwata with a 1.4 tip and getting rid of my GTI and the 670 plus guns with all the fluid tips!
I just don't need Multiple gun's or a whole bunch of fluid tips and different air caps.
In my opinion only a Pro painting every day is going to notice the difference between different Air caps in how metallics lays out.

Having a Fancy gun for Hi build or Poly Primers just isn't necessary in my opinion my el'cheapo Devibiss FLG4 with a 1.8 or 2.2 works fine for those and if it does drip its getting sanded any way...
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



Top Contributor
Posts: 5154
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm
Location: Pahrump NV.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 12:08 pm
PainterDave wrote:lets back up a little here... focusing on your gun is only a small part of the formula.

lets talk PSI, ID of hose, high flow fittings, etc

first off do not to put 80psi to a spray gun and turn down the adjustment knob to get 30psi, by doing this you defeat the purpose of a high volume gun,

use high flow fitting, no less than 3/8 ID hose,

adjust your pressure to the gun at the wall/compressor with your air control knob fully open, this will give your gun better fan and atomization and better results


Boy where were those words of wisdom when I first started????
Adding Hi-Flow fittings to my Air Hoses and Guns is the single best cheapest upgrade a guy can do before buying any new guns!
Biting the bullet and Making the switch Gave me ALL NEW GUNS! Night and Day difference! Makes any gun work like it was designed too!
The single best cheapest upgrade I have done to date! I had to learn how to paint all over again!
The Next best was getting a Pro level compressor and Pro level air filter and drier. :wink:
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



Fully Engaged
Posts: 136
Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 12:30 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 5:18 pm
NFT5 wrote:
The clear I usually use is reduced about 5% and the 1.2mm tip works better with that one.

Cool, the clear I use is reduced the same amount. A few more jobs and I may get myself a Prolite to experiment with.



Non-Lurker
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2021 10:11 am

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2021 3:08 pm
Thanks for all the input. Much, much appreciated!!
I just purchased a Tekna Pro lite with 3 tips and will use my FLG-5 for primer still.

Can anyone send me a link or pdf of a good air compressor to gun setup?

My compressor output is 3/4 in.
I am thinking of running 50 feet 3/4 in. a ladder fashion and putting in 3 water release valves at the bottom where they are close to the floor. That way I can periodically drain some H2O before it hits my 4 Stage Desiccant System.

From there I a putting in a 1/2 in. manifold and running my 3/8 in. hoses out of there with hi Flow adapters

I will leave my main Air compressor regulator wide open and make all my adjustments below my gun.

Am I missing something? Or does this seem good?

Thanks again :worthy:



Top Contributor
Posts: 5154
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm
Location: Pahrump NV.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2021 7:17 pm
Don't adjust pressures at Base of gun.

Air compressor can be regulated to 90 psi throughout shop all Pipe fittings should be of same size except air hose fitting for shop tools i.e Air impact , air ratchets, Die grinders, Air drills etc.. normal every day quick disconnects are fine.

At the Paint booth air should go through air filters and desiccant drier Before another air pressure regulator for booth IN the Booth! Their Hi flow fitting should be used along with another dedicated air hose that is for your gun only with Hi flow fittings.
Adjust air pressure for Gun at Paint Booth Air pressure regulator through the dedicated air hose and the Gun. squeeze paint gun air trigger and hold adjust pressure at wall.
(Reading air pressure at the wall)

Just Me BUT I would run 20 feet or so of pipe out of Air compressor Before a water trap then plumb the shop for air installing air hose quick disconnects where you want and then on to paint booth filters drier and then a air regulator then Paint booth air hose and finally spray gun.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



Non-Lurker
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2021 10:11 am

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 10:47 am
Doright wrote:Don't adjust pressures at Base of gun.

Air compressor can be regulated to 90 psi throughout shop all Pipe fittings should be of same size except air hose fitting for shop tools i.e Air impact , air ratchets, Die grinders, Air drills etc.. normal every day quick disconnects are fine.

At the Paint booth air should go through air filters and desiccant drier Before another air pressure regulator for booth IN the Booth! Their Hi flow fitting should be used along with another dedicated air hose that is for your gun only with Hi flow fittings.
Adjust air pressure for Gun at Paint Booth Air pressure regulator through the dedicated air hose and the Gun. squeeze paint gun air trigger and hold adjust pressure at wall.
(Reading air pressure at the wall)

Just Me BUT I would run 20 feet or so of pipe out of Air compressor Before a water trap then plumb the shop for air installing air hose quick disconnects where you want and then on to paint booth filters drier and then a air regulator then Paint booth air hose and finally spray gun.



Wow Doitright. You name proceeds you. Thanks for the tips. I will know you posted as to my set up.
Thanks again.
Previous

Return to Tools and Supplies

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests