Understanding difference between hard dry and cured

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 12:48 pm
:goodpost: good call Darrel, most people wouldn't think about that.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 4:08 pm
simso wrote:Thank you for the replies, good reading info.

What is the difference then between hard dry and cured?

The handshakes scenario makes way more sense to me :), whilst it’s still curing the handshakes are happening inside and around the skin, once the handshakes have stopped, then you have to key the surface to put the next layer on.

Is that becuase the subsequent coats soften the skin of the paint or the thinners within the fresh paint allow it to bite into the surface. I am assuming once it’s chmeically cured it cannot soften or penetrate into the original layer.

I have a few big pieces coming back from the blasters next week which will be epoxy primed first, my goal is to be in the cure window and follow up with raptor liner rather than have to sand the surface with 120grit.

Steve


let your epoxy flash for 30min to 1 hour and you can raptor right over it, no sanding
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 9:35 pm
Upol rep in australia was kind enough to reply to an email I sent them.

This was their response

Once epoxy primer has dried it must be sanded before anything will adhere to it permanently. If the EP was fresh and not fully cured then the Raptor would stick to it, but once cured you need to “key” it to achieve adhesion.
120 to 180 grit abrasive.
Hope this helps.



So, my thought process, get the necxt lot back from the blasters the momment they have epoxy primed it (hopefully withint a day / two max), scuff with maroon pads and follow up with the Raptor Liner

PS, thankyou to all who have taken the time to respond to my possibly pointless questions, it helps me heaps to make a better educated decision, ""maybe :) ""

Steve

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 12:06 am
Geez, I think your well educated just because you ask us stuff BEFORE it turns into a big fubared up mess.... If you haven't noticed....most guys ask us stuff AFTER things have exploded..... :)
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 8:37 am
FYI, Raptor liner is of the same resins paint is made from. its made to give a texture for DIY guys, and the "appearance" of rhino liner. it is nothing like a Polyurea bed liner.

you could even thin it out spray through a 1.4 and have flat black paint.

it does work great, my point is treat it just like paint.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 7:16 am
Thanks, thanks, and again, Thankyou to every person for sharing their knowledge.

I just started sanding / prepping some of my epoxied undercarriage parts, that epoxy is hard stuff, I’m using marroon scuff pads, and whilst yes I can see some small dust accumulating in my scuff pad it barely looks like it is taking the gleen of the epoxy over the blasted items.

I have a paint booth at work, but I am doing this suspension stuff at home, will put a drop cloth down when I go to paint the liner

Steve
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 9:23 pm
a word of caution cover everything in your garage you don't want liner on. when spraying the springs and hanging things its going to splatter on your door and everywhere. it doesn't spray like paint it kinda splatters out.
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2019 5:03 am
Will do. :goodjob:

Steve
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