Hi everyone,

I have spent the last two weeks getting some quotes and reading, reading, then reading some more on painting vehicles.

Quick background: got a 2001 VW Cabrio as a project car, cheap. I have had to mix and match body parts due to them not being made anymore, so it will soon need some paint. I can't justify $3-4k for a respray on a car that cost me $3k, so I am trying to find a way to DIY.
My main issue is the problems I have read with isocyanates and forced air feed being the strong recommendation, along with strong air movement. I can't obtain that in my garage so I am looking for a less dangerous/toxic option to use to spray the car. I understand the durability, hardness and ease of use will be heavily reduced not using a urethane/hardener based system, but I really would like to find out what other options I have. Acrylic lacquer or enamel paint...I would prefer to get some opinions on those that have much more knowledge than myself.
Any input would be appreciated. I am not looking to replicate a factory paint, and am willing to spend hours doing post-work such as wetsanding/buffing - no problem.

Thanks all!

Start here: https://www.autobody101.com/content/art ... ould-know/

Then read other articles in the Info Section followed by Sticky Posts at the top of each individual forum.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Start here: https://www.autobody101.com/content/art ... ould-know/

Then read other articles in the Info Section followed by Sticky Posts at the top of each individual forum.

Thanks very much! I have been reading the posts as you listed. Great wealth of information.

Do you happen to know if there is any discussion specifically regarding paint types? Would you have any opinion on the feasibility of a non-hardened or single stage isocyanate free paint for a weekend car? Thanks very much!

Try the search function for waterborne paint or isocyanate free paint.

Waterborne still needs a 2K clear and isocyanate-free 2K paints are a nightmare. Enamels are for garden furniture.

If you don't want to use isocyanate 2K paints for safety reasons then your only real choice is acrylic. Don't be misled, a good acrylic paint job will last just as long as 2K and, with the right cutting and buffing, is often used for show cars. It's a more labour intensive system, but ideal for the hobby guy that doesn't want to get into 2K products.

Note that you can still use epoxy primers, which do not contain isocyanates, for excellent rust protection. Some plastic primers are also two component but iso-free, too.

Acrylic/1K primers sand much more easily than even the best of their 2K cousins and your clearcoat is much less likely to suffer from urethane wave, plus the faster flash times mean less likelihood of dust nibs in your paint.

You'll still need ventilation and safety equipment like a mask, but much less likely to die from taking a lungful. It's usually a bit cheaper, too.

NFT5 wrote:Waterborne still needs a 2K clear and isocyanate-free 2K paints are a nightmare. Enamels are for garden furniture.

If you don't want to use isocyanate 2K paints for safety reasons then your only real choice is acrylic. Don't be misled, a good acrylic paint job will last just as long as 2K and, with the right cutting and buffing, is often used for show cars. It's a more labour intensive system, but ideal for the hobby guy that doesn't want to get into 2K products.

Note that you can still use epoxy primers, which do not contain isocyanates, for excellent rust protection. Some plastic primers are also two component but iso-free, too.

Acrylic/1K primers sand much more easily than even the best of their 2K cousins and your clearcoat is much less likely to suffer from urethane wave, plus the faster flash times mean less likelihood of dust nibs in your paint.

You'll still need ventilation and safety equipment like a mask, but much less likely to die from taking a lungful. It's usually a bit cheaper, too.

Thank you so much! This is what I was looking for.

So a very entry level DIY paint job I would think would then have the following:
-Good epoxy primer/filler
-TCP Global California Orange Single Stage Acrylic Lacquer, such as: https://tcpglobal.com/collections/acryl ... 1803-kit-m

The car will be garaged on a lift and *only* driven in good weather and on weekends. TCP global is well regarded in their paints, correct? This is what you meant?

I will read further on my substrate layers before the base (epoxy etc.) and see what my options are.
Thank you again!

wy2sl0 wrote:So a very entry level DIY paint job I would think would then have the following:
-Good epoxy primer/filler
-TCP Global California Orange Single Stage Acrylic Lacquer, such as: https://tcpglobal.com/collections/acryl ... 1803-kit-m

No. Use the epoxy on bare metal and then use a 1K primer/filler to take up slight variations in the surface, blocking it nice and flat. You need to let it dry for a few days, especially if put on thick, to get rid of any thinners still to evaporate off, but after that it should be quite stable. Better to do in two goes. Once it's all blocked out then top coats just go straight over, no need for surfacers etc.

I can't comment on that brand - let the local guys say from their experience. I use Axalta Cromax L400 which I think is as good as PPG Dulon. Cheap acrylics are generally rubbish, and don't save much compared to the good ones. Most important thing with acrylic is to use the best quality thinner you can buy. I only use PPG Dulon AAA which is not cheap at around $200/20 litres but is slow enough that that paint settles really well and dries with a lovely high gloss.

NFT5 wrote:

wy2sl0 wrote:So a very entry level DIY paint job I would think would then have the following:
-Good epoxy primer/filler
-TCP Global California Orange Single Stage Acrylic Lacquer, such as: https://tcpglobal.com/collections/acryl ... 1803-kit-m

No. Use the epoxy on bare metal and then use a 1K primer/filler to take up slight variations in the surface, blocking it nice and flat. You need to let it dry for a few days, especially if put on thick, to get rid of any thinners still to evaporate off, but after that it should be quite stable. Better to do in two goes. Once it's all blocked out then top coats just go straight over, no need for surfacers etc.

I can't comment on that brand - let the local guys say from their experience. I use Axalta Cromax L400 which I think is as good as PPG Dulon. Cheap acrylics are generally rubbish, and don't save much compared to the good ones. Most important thing with acrylic is to use the best quality thinner you can buy. I only use PPG Dulon AAA which is not cheap at around $200/20 litres but is slow enough that that paint settles really well and dries with a lovely high gloss.

Ok great, thank you. I sent out an email to a Canadian distributor re: the PPG and Axalta paints to see if I can source them in a single DIY fashion.