Failing clear coat respray help

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 11:07 am
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 11:29 am
The 36/80 won't leave gouges in the metal? That's the only concern I had and why I wanted to start with a higher grit. If I can use 36 I'll gladly use 36 lol

All the priming... I think I get it. It's easier to fill and correct than begin with and maintain a perfect surface... right?

I don't have to worry about building up too much primer? Also how long are you letting all this primer dry between sandings?



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 12:30 pm
Anyone got a cheap & decent primer sprayer they can point me towards? (before I get flamed yes I know cheap and decent is an oxymoron but I'm just sanding it off anyway)

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 12:52 pm
40ozFatality wrote:Anyone got a cheap & decent primer sprayer they can point me towards?...


Iwata/Air Gunza AZ3 HTE-S
ANI F160 (I think is the current model)

Get a 2.0 or bigger tip
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 3:48 pm
[quote="40ozFatality"]The 36/80 won't leave gouges in the metal? That's the only concern I had and why I wanted to start with a higher grit. If I can use 36 I'll gladly use 36 lol

All the priming... I think I get it. It's easier to fill and correct than begin with and maintain a perfect surface... right?

I don't have to worry about building up too much primer? Also how long are you letting all this primer dry between sandings?

[/quote i use the 36 all the time and haven't seen any problems. i just cut the old paint off with the 36 grit, i may leave some of the factory primer in spots. i'm just trying to clean the old paint off not cut it to the metal but you will go to the metal a lot. if i leave primer spots i don't worry about it i come back with the D/A and some 80 grit to clean it up, and get those primer spots off. now the 80 grit leaves a perfect profile for the epoxy. way back when all we had was lacquer and enamel primers this might have been a problem as they would shrink like crazy and expose scratches in the base metal. now days you have epoxy and hi-build urathane primers that are light years better than what we had before. on your primer build a lot of it will be sanded off the epoxy can be filled and sanded the next day in normal temps. if it doesn't sand good give it another day the hi-build if you want to push it you can put it on then in 3-4 hours sand it. sand it when ever it feels good ( sands good ) . and yes to your last question. be sure and get your PRODUCT INFO SHEET with all your products, NOT THE MSDS SHEET. the info sheet will tell you dry times recoat times how to mix and so on.
Last edited by badsix on Wed Sep 15, 2021 3:52 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 3:48 pm
OldFatBald wrote:
40ozFatality wrote:Anyone got a cheap & decent primer sprayer they can point me towards?...


Iwata/Air Gunza AZ3 HTE-S
ANI F160 (I think is the current model)

Get a 2.0 or bigger tip


I have the 2.0 and it works fine for both 2k and polyester primer.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 3:50 pm
Most of the primer will get sanded off onto the floor if you are doing this right. The idea is to block sand to get the surfaces straight and level.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 5:23 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:
OldFatBald wrote:
40ozFatality wrote:Anyone got a cheap & decent primer sprayer they can point me towards?...


Iwata/Air Gunza AZ3 HTE-S
ANI F160 (I think is the current model)

Get a 2.0 or bigger tip


I have the 2.0 and it works fine for both 2k and polyester primer.


BTW, Do NOT purchase one off of Amazon. Too many fakes
Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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