I've got a 2001 Silverado that is BLACK from the factory. I've noticed that the hood is showing the same signs of CRACKING paint that the cab top is showing. Last year I tried in vain to remove the paint from my cab top... and got NO WHERE. At this point, I've got the hood off for a motor swap and figured I could remove existing paint, primer, seal, base color/clear coat it, along with some racing stripes. I'm using a 5" oribital sander with 40 grit paper and literally it is POLISHING the paint as if it were glass.. It is NOT harming/removing the paint at all... merely polishing it! This is a brand new sanding disc... and the paint is LAUGHING at me. Out of frustration I picked up an angle grinder, with 36 grit grinding disc and had to hold it in one spot for several seconds to cut through the paint to the metal underneath. I wish I was kidding.. a GRINDER is having problems removing this paint!!!!!!!

Is there some other tool that I should be using to remove this paint? Like a 6" polisher with 36 grit flap disc? Should I just send it out to be sand blasted by a local company? I don't want to spend WEEKS just trying to get the old paint off. It took me over 10 minutes to GRIND a 2" X 3" section down to bare metal... I don't understand what is happening. I've never seen any paint like this before... Please... I will accept any advise that is offered. I just want the hood stripped as quickly as possible and a GRINDER can't do it..

Kawabuggy wrote:I've got a 2001 Silverado that is BLACK from the factory. I've noticed that the hood is showing the same signs of CRACKING paint that the cab top is showing. Last year I tried in vain to remove the paint from my cab top... and got NO WHERE. At this point, I've got the hood off for a motor swap and figured I could remove existing paint, primer, seal, base color/clear coat it, along with some racing stripes. I'm using a 5" oribital sander with 40 grit paper and literally it is POLISHING the paint as if it were glass.. It is NOT harming/removing the paint at all... merely polishing it! This is a brand new sanding disc... and the paint is LAUGHING at me. Out of frustration I picked up an angle grinder, with 36 grit grinding disc and had to hold it in one spot for several seconds to cut through the paint to the metal underneath. I wish I was kidding.. a GRINDER is having problems removing this paint!!!!!!!

Is there some other tool that I should be using to remove this paint? Like a 6" polisher with 36 grit flap disc? Should I just send it out to be sand blasted by a local company? I don't want to spend WEEKS just trying to get the old paint off. It took me over 10 minutes to GRIND a 2" X 3" section down to bare metal... I don't understand what is happening. I've never seen any paint like this before... Please... I will accept any advise that is offered. I just want the hood stripped as quickly as possible and a GRINDER can't do it..

WOW! Never heard of paint that stood up to 36 grit...........I'd look to have it soda blasted--sand might warp it. Just my thoughts.

Try a heat gun and razor blade.

Heat a small area till it starts to soften and then insert the blade and slowly work a couple of inches at a time keeping the heat concentrated in front of the razor blade.

You will get the hang of it pretty quickly and there is no need to overheat the panel.

i use a Mikita 9227-C electric sander/ polisher its variable speed. then use a foam interface pad and 36 grit stick on discs get the sanding discs from an autobody jobber, not a wood shop. run it slow i could strip that hood in about 30 min. another way to go that works real good is an 7" or 8" IF you can find them black paint removal pad https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-BriteTM-C ... xcs048011- run this at slow to med speed also.https://www.eastwood.com/backing-pad-cu ... oogle&wv=4 THIS or similar to this. Velcro is good if you can get the 36 grit in Velcro also i take the paint off down to where i leave a little primer in spots then go over it with a 80 grit disc or 80 grit on your DA. i try not to get real aggressive on the metal with the 36 grit. it also helps to give it a quick wipe with some wax and grease remover seams to let it cut better that if its got a coat of wax on it. the new ceramic will slow you down a lot sometimes.
Jay D.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Try a heat gun and razor blade.

Heat a small area till it starts to soften and then insert the blade and slowly work a couple of inches at a time keeping the heat concentrated in front of the razor blade.

You will get the hang of it pretty quickly and there is no need to overheat the panel.

Stripping Right Fender.JPG

he types fast than i do. this works equally good
Jay D.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gator-Power-Sa ... 1000346965

I am using these now, almost exclusively. Super fast, doesn't remove metal, if used carefully, and a disc can do half a car, if used carefully . Don't run it against an edge, just like any other rotating object. I tried the Horrible Freight ones, and they don't work as good as the name brand ones. They tend to glaze over, and don't work as well.

chopolds wrote:https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gator-Power-Sanding-Silicon-Carbide-4-5-in-60-Grit-Paint-Stripping-Disc/1000346965

I am using these now, almost exclusively. Super fast, doesn't remove metal, if used carefully, and a disc can do half a car, if used carefully . Don't run it against an edge, just like any other rotating object. I tried the Horrible Freight ones, and they don't work as good as the name brand ones. They tend to glaze over, and don't work as well.

Are you using this on a 4 1/2" right angle grinder?

chopolds wrote:https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gator-Power-Sanding-Silicon-Carbide-4-5-in-60-Grit-Paint-Stripping-Disc/1000346965

I am using these now, almost exclusively. Super fast, doesn't remove metal, if used carefully, and a disc can do half a car, if used carefully . Don't run it against an edge, just like any other rotating object. I tried the Horrible Freight ones, and they don't work as good as the name brand ones. They tend to glaze over, and don't work as well.

but the 41/2 " grinder is too fast for sheet metal work, UNLESS your experienced, witch i assume YOU are. BUT for a "newbie" that could get them in trouble. the 7and 8" work great on the SANDER/ POLISHER. i have never tried it, but why wouldn't the 41/2 discs you're talking about work good on a locked D/A. lock so it doesn't oscillate. that way it could be run somewhat slower and keep the heat down.
Jay D.

Yes, on a 4 1/2" grinder. And even though they do run fast, I've never had a problem with these discs. Even when I've had the owners of the car do the dirty work, and they're usually inexperienced. They must be just cool running abrasives.

chopolds wrote:I've never had a problem with these discs.

Same here although I did have one painter who destroyed a brand new Corolla bonnet by going too hard, so it is certainly possible.

I use a 125mm grinder (Makita) with variable speed set to about 3/8. Or 3/10, can't remember, but not overly fast to not generate too much heat.

I used to use the standard discs but changed recently to the orange ceramic ones (link here). Last much longer and run cooler. Eats paint and bog without even raising a sweat.