how to shoot clear coat after base

General Discussion. Make yourself at, ask and answer!

Posts: 7
Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 11:01 pm
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 11:16 pm
i have painted a whole car before but i have no training so i have little experience i am pleased with the past results, but i do not know how to properly shoot the clear. sometimes i get drier spots and some more wet i make sure to add enough coats of clear to cut it, its easier to wetsand and buff dry rough clear than a few runs. what size of tip should i use on my HVLP gravity feed gun and how thick should my coats be a little advice will be appreciated thanks
PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2011 10:52 am
a hvlp is not the best choice of guns to use for clear, but it can be done. they just spray a lil slower with clear. but i understand that your not wanting to buy another gun for clearing. clear is thicker than base when you spray it. some playin with the control may be needed for when you clear. (what i mean by clear is thicker than base, clear mix ratio is 2:1 -4:1 (this is 2k clear) base is a 1:1 mix.)

depends on clear, 2-4 coats may be required, 2 coats with good clear 3-4 with cheap clear.
you need to make sure the fluid tip is wide open, hold gun about 6-8" away form panel, and overlap 50-70% depending on how wide your fan pattern is.
you want to go about a med fast speed on you overlaps.
1.4 tip is good, weather your useing a 2k clear or clear that needs reducer in it, over reduce it some, this allows the clear to flow out a lil better, and have less orange peel, however a practice panel should be done to see what the clear will do, you may need to vary the speed some as well as the fan spray pattern, and over lap.

User avatar

Fully Engaged
Posts: 178
Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2010 7:07 pm
Location: Maricopa, Arizona
PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2011 3:53 pm
keep a wet edge. Try to position yourself so that you are actually watching the clear hit the panel. Then if you see foggy dry clear.. slow it down.. until its clear.. not too slow or you'll run it. It takes experience. The only way you're going to get that right. Not one person here can tell you how. You just have to do it to get it right.

I personally take runs as a "novice" or a "mistake" and it's frowned apon. I am almost embarrased to show the car before it's fixed.

The settings in the gun as well all play a factor. It's an art form. If it was easy.. everyone would be doing it.
"Many of us on here paint in our garages so "garage job" as a derogatory term isn't appropriate. The quality of the work is based on the person's ability not necessarily the facility he/she works in." - '68 Coronet R/T

Posts: 7
Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 11:01 pm
PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 12:08 am
thanks guys for the advice i will be posting my jobs soon before and after wet sand

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 3459
Joined: Fri May 26, 2006 10:56 am
Location: Oregon
PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 9:16 am
Some clear that is tricky to spray, I actually use a pushing motion and point the gun slightly towards the direction I'm traveling. A little hard to explain but just choke up closer to the panel and spray it as wet as you can without running it.
On an HVLP you will have to open your fluid almost all the way and up your pressure about 5-10lbs or more. Some guns spray better with a lot more pressure and opened wide open for clear. ;)
horizontal panels like hoods, lids, you don't have to worry about runs but on the side panels, try to avoid using too much reducer or it can run on you.

Return to Body and Paint

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot] and 25 guests