Need Help With Wetsanding Rustoleum Orange Peel

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Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2011 9:36 pm

PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 10:06 pm
Ok, so about 3 weeks ago I sanded down, primed, and painted my 95 sunfire "woot." I used high gloss black rustoleum paint mixed 3:1 with mineral spirits. I sprayed two base coats and it I managed to make it look good from about 10 feet away, but any closer and you can really see the orange peel. Or what I think is orange peel. I read a lot about wet sanding and buffing so I decided to give it a shot to see if I could get the paint a little more glossy.

First Problem: When I use 1000 grit soaked for 15 minutes in regular water I get deep scratches in the paint every couple inches and it takes me about 30 minutes per square foot to get all orange peel level. I am wondering how much pressure I should use and if it should take this long?

Second Problem: I then quickly sand perpendicular to the 1000 grit sandpaper with 1500 then 2000 and then try to buff it. Problem is my 3m buffing compound will not get any of the scratches off. Not just the big ones. I am using my fathers old DA sander with terry cloth covers.

Any advice on these problems? Could I instead of the wetsanding/buffing of the base coat just add a clear coat over the single stage high gloss rustoleum paint then sand/buff that?

I'm a big noob and any help would be appreciated.. Been trying to figure this out for weeks.

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Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2011 10:50 am

PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 7:08 am
Well I'll take a crack at this. I have used rustoleam paint before but it was becouse of a spec for some electrical boxes I used the best gun on the market and you can get that stuff flatt. First check the spec sheet for there tips on any sanding & buffing also for recoating with a clear some paints have a window and some dont respond well to eigher. Now for the polishing use a little dish soap in your water it will give a lubercateing quality if you here a high pich squeak stop and clean the paper thats sand or dirt you picked up. To buff an orbital wont cut it you need a High speed polish grinder type at around 1500 to 2000 rpm you'll see a big diffrence also use a finer grit paper 1500 and up on black that will help.

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Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:56 pm
PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 6:01 pm
ya get a rotary polisher, coming form a detailing backround before trying paint i can tell you they cut and work 10-20 times faster than a random orbit/dual action etc

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 8:56 pm
Over reduced it and still got orange peel? It should go on pretty slick if applied right.
Buy an autozone sander/polisher $70
Get 3M perfect it II Rubbing compound $25 and the Dark Polish $40.
Buy the appropriate pads and back pad. $20
Block the orange peel out with 1500 then remove the 1500 scratches with 2000.
Compound then Polish using the right pad respectively.
Don't rush but don't build much heat at all on that paint. It will burn so keep moving.
Using a D/A style buffer is for the birds and a waste of my time.

Do everything in order.
All 1500 WET then All 2000 WET
Compound All
If you get out less than 8-12 hours...KUDOS!!!!
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.

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