What grit to use?

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Yes
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No
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I don't care, I already know how to sand.
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4%
 
Total votes : 676


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 12:49 am
I noticed a notable difference in sanding with p-400 and p-800 for waterborne basecoat. Had to go with 800 as the 400 "dulled" or showed the scratches. I love this post. Useful on many levels.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 6:58 pm
This tread is great! thanks!



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 11:03 pm
Great info. I did vote but I will take the the pink paint job after I find a caddy convertible. LOL



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 5:31 pm
Thank you! I found this extremely helpful as a newbie, I voted btw



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 18, 2011 12:04 pm
Thanks, to you guys for this post a great help.
51 Henry J, 31 A-bone, 35 Dodge PU, 62 Fairlane, and a 72 Mustang, project cars not mine. 33 Dirt champ car that's mine!



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 1:17 pm
How come no one mentioned 3000 grit? If you really want a paint job it to shine - really shine - don't forget to sand with 3000 grit before buffing. It makes all the difference - if you can find it.



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:50 am
im confused for the buffing process i sould be wet sanding with p1500? i can to find regular 1500 grit sandpaper they all have the p thanks guys

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:54 am
It depends on how smooth your clear is to begin with. If you have a lot of orange peel, runs or some other texture, you might need to drop down to P1000 grit to start. You can use it wet or dry, I prefer wet sanding. Then you work progressively finer grits until you are ready to buff, P1500 - P2000 - P3000. Make sure you are removing the scratches from the previous grit paper on the next stage with the fine grit paper. If you try to buff P1500 scratches, it will take a while to get to the polishing stage. Its best to buff when you get to P2000 or P3000.



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 3:50 pm
In response to the question about runs, there is a nifty little tool made by Steck called a nib file. It's nothing more than a piece of a body file glued into a wooden block. There are two, fine and coarse. Get the course one. It will cost you about $15-$18. First thing to is sand the corners of the wooden block to round them off, then take the file and lay it on top of the run and rub it back and forth. It will shave off only the top of the run and not the thinner paint on either side of it. It will quickly take it down to the level of the surrounding paint and you can then sand it smooth with 1000 grit wet. If the run is on an edge or corner it doesn't do as well, but for flat panels or slight body curves, it's a miracle tool.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:22 pm
Just don't get too carried away with it or you will end up with some deep scratches in it. Keep the file cleaned out and go light.
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
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