What grit to use?

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Should this post get stickied?

Yes
600
92%
No
22
3%
I don't care, I already know how to sand.
28
4%
 
Total votes : 650


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 6:41 pm
If I'm sanding scrathes out of primer where body filler is, I use 320. Other primed areas I use 400. Paint gets sanded with 400 and if it is like a silver metalic, I finish off with 600....especially if I'm blending the color and clearing the entire panel.

--
Gordon

**Shareware Estimating Program**



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 6:53 pm
Gordon-

So you sand the base with 400 before you apply clearcoat? I'm new and have not come across anyone who has told me to do this yet. I just assumed you could go from base to clear without any sanding.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 9:30 pm
I think he means he uses 400/600 before basecoat, no one sands with anything before clear, if you sand basecoat you need to apply more befor eyou clear.



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2004 9:47 pm
Is there a way to equate the red/silver/white (what are they called? ), scuff pads to a grit?



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2004 10:07 pm
i voted :D



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 2:25 pm
Hey...drive over to my house...I want that paint job...anthing but what I have. :oops:



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2005 9:03 am
ok i give up...what is a sticky? :roll:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 3:07 pm
deleted it
Last edited by D71 on Thu Feb 09, 2006 5:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 7:41 pm
Sorry if this has been asked to death but when you guys block sand what size block are we talking about?

fwiw- I'll be working on motorcycle parts not necessarily large flat parts.

TY!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2005 8:59 pm
Great post, I voted yes. But I caught this, is this an error ? Is that suppose to be don't spend to much time in one spot ? Also the other thing I made in bold, what does that mean ? Is prepping for primer the same if your spraying on top of an old basecoat rather then spraying on old primer ?


Prep for primer: 220 dry
Surfacer should fill 220 grit scratches easily, since you don't want to put any waves into the work at this point you'll probably want to use a block. The right way to block sand is in an X pattern, overlapping, never spend time on one spot, be aware of where you're making contact with the peice and for what duration. You can start coarser, 40 if you need to do some serious shaping, but as you progress you should use finer grits and finish with at least 180. This is the stage you're shaping filler in, so I should mention that the best way to do this is clearly with a body file, a cheese grater tool that's used shortly after the filler kicks but before it fully cures. It removes a massive amount of material easy as pie so you can finish with sandpaper. This is also the magic time window to trim fiberglass, do butt joints in cloth, stuff like that.
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