Here is my delima... I am a first time painter and didn't do enough research. Decided to go flat black on my 33 ford replica. After doing the research I should have done I realized that flat finish is not only tough to spray right, but hard to maintain. Right now I am at primer, with a gallon of the flat black (eastwood dead rat flat black) deciding to ditch the flat paint, leave it in primer or spray the flat. Now for the question... If I am not happy with the flat can I spray gloss clear over it and will it look like a base / clear coat or will it look off?
Here is my project....
I am only into the flat paint about $100 and don't think I have the skill yet to spray it right. I need something fairly easy and black to complete the all black theme, I need some advice. here are a few pics of the primed body.
Thanks for the help!
Brent
Gloss clear over flat black single stage
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Without a nice paint booth the flat and matte paints are really tough to spray without getting dirt in them. To me it seems you cannot touch these finishes without imparting some shine in those areas.
For a nice project like that I would consider a deep black base and then shoot a matte clear over it, if that is the look you want. This a 2007 Ford Ebony Black code UA It has ********** Euro clear coat on it but the picture shows the depth of the black. This is ********** black base with the same clear: 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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********** looks like a truer black than the ford code paint. Correct?
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Its definitely true black if there is such a thing. I can't see any reddish brown or bluish tint to it like you can in most blacks.
I get a lot of compliments on my Harley since I painted it. Of course, I see everything wrong with it, knowing I painted it in a hurry so I could get it back together in time for a ride up the CA coast. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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I wouldn't try to put clear over the flat black. Flat finish paints get their flatness from a surface which is irregular, not smooth and flat. That isn't necessarily the finish that is ideal for a clear and, being a finish coat it will need sanding/scuffing which may show through.
I'd see if your distributor will take back the flat and exchange for a base coat. If they won't the you're only out $100 and you can probably find another use for it somewhere Chris
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Your description may be an across the pond difference but flatness, or gloss level, is achieved by the addition of flattening agent. A flattened paint will lay down smooth with no texture if shot correctly. I shoot satin and flat paint often and it does not have irregularities. What needs to be noted is flattened paint can lose its true black hue. Better off buying a BC/'CC or SS system if gloss black I preferred. |
Just to reinforce what's been said about the Ford UA black, being the deepest and
truest black available. If you want black, this will look better than some of the other blacks which might have a brown tint. That rod deserves the best, not a paint that has 'dead rat' in the name.... "If you can't move it, paint it." - U.S. Army
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I would definitely use some quality materials on that car.... Even standard factory colors from House of Kolor, **********, etc. would be within a budget.
I am not 100% sure, but I have seen it quoted several times (in several different places) that Eastwood is private labeled Kirker brand paint. While Kirker paint is not horrible (I use it myself), it is not the best material of choice for a car that is worth decent money. I save the Kirker for the cars that I am making a quick flip and want a good shine that will last a few years. It is kinda tricky to shoot and needs to be laid down pretty heavy to look right. There's a reason they can price it around $70/gallon for a kit. |
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At the visible level, yes, it lays down nice and smooth and flat but a flatting binder (usually silica) works by introducing a micro surface roughness which scatters the light being reflected off the surface, making it appear flat or matte. Less flatting binder will have less effect and so you can achieve a semi-gloss or satin finish by varying the quantity of flatting binder. This micro roughness, because it is so small, can be easily reduced by just rubbing a cloth over the surface. Reducing the roughness increases the gloss so you end up with shiny spots where you've rubbed. Hence the difficulty of maintaining a flat surface at a completely uniform level of gloss (or lack thereof). Chris
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Thanks for all the replies and advice. I think I will look for some good base coat and clear coat. Or I may just leave it in primer for a while. i have been working on it for 2 years and It would be nice to have it assembled. The Ford Black sounds perfect. Thanks again
Brent |
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