Restoration Project, Metallic Acrylic Lacquer Assistance

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 10:46 am
I started this post on my restoration project a couple of years ago and did receive some very helpful guidance in the replies that followed. I originally mentioned that I had unlimited time to complete this project and that certainly has been the case. I have done all the work myself and do my own restorations as a hobby.

I am well into the painting of the car and looking to revist comments received earlier on a plan to clear the car (and cut and polish) or just polish the colour without clear coating.

This is the current status of the paint work:
- the original paint was sanded and very minor body work was done to correct only the most significant original factory flaws, no attempt was made to make the body laser straight as the project is to NCRS standards
- the car was primed, let cure for a few months, block sanded, and primed again
- the second coats of prime were left to cure for six months or so
- the prime was dry sanded with P500 for first coats of color
- four coats of colour were sprayed and left to cure for a couple of months

The body and removable parts (doors, hood, headlight buckets/bezels, cowel grills, and rear valance) were painted separately - parts painted in one session and the body the next day. All parts were sprayed in the same orientation as they are when fitted to the body.

I used two different HVLP spray guns on the colour, a Sata 3000 with 1.3 tip and a Devillbiss FLG4 with a 1.5 tip. Both were very similar, but I could get the paint a bit wetter with the Devillbiss.

I now plan to wet sand the initial colour coats with P800 and spray the final four or five coats of colour. I have been able to get good wet coats on the loose parts but it has been difficult to avoid some dry spray and overspray on the body.

If I do decide to clear the car how would you handle any dry spray areas or over spray areas in the colour before clearing? The P-Sheet allows 24 hours to clear the colour coat. Could you clear over any dry spray or over spray areas and expect the clear to melt in and smooth things out? I suspect any sanding or scotch bright work prior to the clear is not a good idea. Is it reasonable to “double dip” the clear, say spray four coats, let cure, sand with say P800, and spray four more coats of clear, then cut and polish?

If I decide not to clear, I assume I could simply polish out any of the dry or over spray areas without any issues, is this reasonable? The car will not be a daily driver and will be protected from the elements. Any comments or further guidance is appreciated.



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 11:39 am
you don't say how the mixture your using is working, is it laying down good. I have just a couple comments. first if you want the no clear look I would try and buff the final coat of color LIGHTLY you should be able to clean off the overspray this way.
your doing good to let it set to cure out, it gets orange peely as it cures. here's what I've done on lacquer jobs, spray your final color coat as you want it let dry for 3-4 weeks depending on millage. then sand and apply the least amount of coats possible to get good color. this will prevent the shrinkage problem you get with to many coats. now you can LIGHTLY buff to remove any over spray I would start with a foam polishing pad and a mild compound we don't want to cut any color.
another tip using the slowest thinner you can get by with makes the job easier. and usually the slower thinners are a better quality.
then you can always clear and that is the safest, easiest way to go.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 12:12 pm
Thanks Jay D. I am using slightly more thinner than what the P-sheet calls for. The P-sheet specifies 1:1.5, I am using 1:1.7 to attemp to get less dry spray. My thinner is mid temp, 65 to 80 degrees, and is the only product I have access to. I am spraying only when the ambient temperature is 60 to 65 degrees in order the maintain a wetter edge with cooler temperature. I am using slightly less air pressure than my HVLP guns recommend (20 psi rather than 23 to get 10 psi at the air cap). I plan to spray a back and forth pattern before progressing 50% overlap across a panel to try to push a wet edge better on my next coats.

Your suggestions on final colours coats sounds solid. You also mention a clear could be done afterwards if desired. Does that mean I could clear after some time has passed and after polishing without spraying more color immediately before clearing? I realize the Lacquer will melt in to the underlying layers but I though it would need to be done within 24 hours of the colour coat.



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Posts: 6731
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm
Location: OREGON COAST
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 9:10 pm
Sounds like you have a grip on what your doing. I always liked to shoot clear with a metallic job. thus applying your color coats then continue right on with the clear. its probably going to orange peel, but no you have the option to cut and buff or cut and apply a couple more wet coats of clear. less likely to O/P you should try one of your small parts with just color letting it dry 6-7 days then lightly buff and see what happens. i think you'll be happy we use to buff theses old cars all the time and never bothered the color any other than the primer started showing.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay
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