Why is single stage cheaper than bc/cc?

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 05, 2021 10:22 am
you can not really calculate the cost of paint till you figure out your RTS cost. (ready to spray) some may seem cheaper in the raw pint or quart before reduction or RTS form but the true cost in paint is calculated after mixing.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 05, 2021 1:45 pm
NFT5 wrote:
Billgluckman wrote:why isn’t ss with clear coat on top not the best route?


There are industrial finishes that are way tougher than 2K/SS or clear. There are also some clears that are much tougher than the ones we usually use in automotive refinishing.

The point about the bond between base and clear, and its propensity to allow moisture in if the clear is broken is a valid one but other than this, premium clears (which are also expensive) don't have the same issues, or at least not to the same degree. For example, if I do a job in premium products then I can give a lifetime warranty, excludes mechanical damage, of course. But if I use cheaper clears, or base from a different paint manufacturer then there is no warranty, other than the statutory one.

While clear over 2K does look good, giving a much deeper gloss, again it depends on the products you're using. I also have some concerns about the 2K to clear bond which, if the clear is done after the 2K has dried, relies on mechanical adhesion to a much greater degree. You could clear over the 2K wet-on-wet but that's asking for runs and peel, IMHO. Nice for a show car but not practical or economical for a daily driver.

In terms of everyday jobs and particularly in terms of the work and skill levels done by most members of this forum, BC/CC is the best option.

Edit: Just came back to this and realised that I didn't address your question about why it's cheaper.

Formulating clear is tricky, especially keeping it "water clear". So components are more expensive. Binder for 2k is not quite clear and I guess that the theory is that you could use 2K binder and hardener, but I haven't ever tried. Then, with BC/CC you have the cost of the base, which can be expensive, by itself.

On top of all that the paint companies know that clear is perceived as a premium product while 2K is not, being more likely to be used on trade vans, trucks and lower end cars. So they price accordingly.


This thread is old so I wasn’t asking about cost, just replying the post above. Lol

I’ve been thinking of doing a single stage urethane with clear on top on my personal project. It’s a solid color red.

It would be mechanical adhesion vs chemical adhesion but that’s true for when you flow coat too (as far as I know, never done it)

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 05, 2021 8:36 pm
PainterDave wrote:you can not really calculate the cost of paint till you figure out your RTS cost. (ready to spray) some may seem cheaper in the raw pint or quart before reduction or RTS form but the true cost in paint is calculated after mixing.


Yes, this too.

The other thing is coverage. If I use Cromax Centari 6000 base coat the binders cost
4 times that of the binders for, say Centari 610 and the formulae call for much higher concentrations of tinters. But I can get complete coverage in 1.5 coats, so I don't need anywhere near as much paint, may only half what I'd use for 610. Sometimes what seems economical, isn't.
Chris
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