I am painting all jams (hood, trunk, doors) first then rest of the body. I painted the jams on the front fender and put down tape and paper to protect the rest of the fender. I had a tape line at the edge of the jams. I wanted to remove the roughness of the paint line so I used 2000 grit. I was able to remove the lines but 2 spot I went through to metal. These are very very small. What should I do about these spots?

so what's your next step. what type of paint are you using and what color, are you going to seal, and just how big are the bare spots.
Jay D.

So I have put on epoxy primer then sandable primer. After painting the jams, I will reassemble the 68 Mustang (doors, hood, trunk lid and fenders). After that paint the Mustang with doors, hood, trunk lid and fenders on the car. I am using Nason products. Doing a base clear coat. Color is lime gold green. The paint has a considerable amount of metallic in it.

So the spots that I have sanded through both the epoxy and sandable are about 1/32 inch (0.8mm) wide and about an inch long (25mm)

normally if it was a S/S i would just spray right over it. with base I've had problems a few times with the base not covering the bare steel for color. on one occasion it was a red, Dodge Stealth red a DuPont Chroma Base color. as i sprayed the red over the bare spot it turn almost black and several coats would not cover it. i have never had the situation come up with a metallic so i can't say for sure. what i would do is shoot a little of your primer over the areas just to be sure its a minor inconvenience now but could be a major problem later.
Jay D.

Epoxy, sandable, 1000 grit, color, clear, 1000 grit, clear the whole panel or to a body line.

Do you have an airbrush? Even a $9.99 special from Harbor Freight will do the trick. Although a good Iwata has more fine control. After you have practiced a couple of times you will be amazed at how easy it is.

The key is to keep the repair as small as you can while matching the color and metallic flop. Make sure you have some good lighting and a super bright LED flashlight to look at the repair under different lighting conditions. Tape off like a foot away. The epoxy is probably not needed, but I would use it anyway for adhesion. One light coat with the airbrush just on the sand thru. Sandable is needed so you have the same ground color under the base coat as the surrounding area. 2 light coats making it a little further out then the sandable. Carefully sand smooth with 1000 to about a foot away for adhesion.

Color is the hard part. Make sure it's thoroughly mixed. First 2 coats of should be applied light and cover just past the primer. Next coat should go a little further out, and the next a little further out. At this point the amount of paint applied should still be small, but a little heavier on the sand through and faded outward away from the repair. When you think you have it right, let it cure well and then use a grey pad to clean any overspray on the surrounding area. Wipe super clean and look at the repair when it's wet. If you are happy with it, let it dry for an hour or so then apply a couple of coats of clear to a point past where the base coat was applied, but don't get up against the tape. We don't want hard lines.

Tape off the whole panel or to a body line, sand with 1000, super clean, and clear with a touchup gun.

Thanks... The harbor freight air brush with sandable primer worked great!!!
Thanks again