Hi,

New to the forum and have a question about repainting my car. I have a 1991 Ford with the original paint. The problem is the clear coat is flaking off and I am looking for the proper way to sand the car to repaint it. Lots of information online but want to make sure I do it correctly. The body on the car is extremely clean and only needs a few spots smooth/leveled with Icing Finishing putty. Once I have those done properly, I am thinking I need to remove the clear coat with either 180 or 240 grit then sand entire car with 320 grit. Once I do that, I can lay the base coat and cover with clear. I plan to use the original factory color of the car and will be block sanding the car by hand so I don't accidentally burn or go through to metal as easily. I am open to thoughts and opinions on my strategy. Thanks

That final sanding should be at least 400 grit. I did 600 on mine but it's a show car.

Once the clear coat has deteriorated to the point of flaking off, the base coat has been compromised and needs to be removed.
If you want to do this right then I would suggest stripping the base coat as well.

Yep, I'd agree with that as well. That time period in factory paints would be enough to make me get rid of the old base. Paint systems were changing and not everything was working out that well. People are always assuming it is failing clears when it also was many times a failing base that allowed the clear to let go......

Thanks for the input. So 180 - 240 to remove all the clear coat. then 320-400 on the entire car before the base coat as a minimum. At least, I think that is what would work. Not doing a show car, doing an everyday driver and weekend drag car.

you need to go to bare steel finished in 80 grit,

epoxy mixed as a primer and finish that in 400 if you like, then seal with epoxy and paint

My personal approach (everyone is slightly different) would be to do as Dave said and strip to metal (many different options for stripping paint) and then finish with 80 grit on DA.

Apply two coats of a quality epoxy primer and wait over night (at 70 degrees).

Lightly run over it with 180 grit on a block to reveal your low spots.

Apply filler or glazing (a two component system) where needed and feather into primer, finishing with 180 grit.

When satisfied with your prep work shoot 3 coats of 2k build primer and let cure per tech sheet.

Apply guide coat and block sand with 180 to remove the guide coat. Be sure to use at least a 9" firm sanding block as this will get your panels nice and straight.

Shoot two more coats of 2k (you can add some reducer to the last coat so it lays down better) and then guide coat and block with 320 just to remove the guide coat.

Apply more guide coat and wet sand with 600 on a soft block to remove all guide coat and prepare surface for base.

There is some flexibility with the grits used and whether a second round of 2k build primer and blocking are necessary. I would highly recommend using 3M dry guide coat prior to your final wet sanding to be sure your surface is truly ready for base and clear.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote::goodpost:

My personal approach (everyone is slightly different) would be to do as Dave said and strip to metal (many different options for stripping paint) and then finish with 80 grit on DA.

Apply two coats of a quality epoxy primer and wait over night (at 70 degrees).

Lightly run over it with 180 grit on a block to reveal your low spots.

Apply filler or glazing (a two component system) where needed and feather into primer, finishing with 180 grit.

When satisfied with your prep work shoot 3 coats of 2k build primer and let cure per tech sheet.

Apply guide coat and block sand with 180 to remove the guide coat. Be sure to use at least a 9" firm sanding block as this will get your panels nice and straight.

Shoot two more coats of 2k (you can add some reducer to the last coat so it lays down better) and then guide coat and block with 320 just to remove the guide coat.

Apply more guide coat and wet sand with 600 on a soft block to remove all guide coat and prepare surface for base.

There is some flexibility with the grits used and whether a second round of 2k build primer and blocking are necessary. I would highly recommend using 3M dry guide coat prior to your final wet sanding to be sure your surface is truly ready for base and clear.

thats a very good write up, i lack in typing write ups lol

Thank you all for your contributions. This has helped tremendously.

start with a THOROUGH wash of the vehicle. i use dawn dishsoap. hit every nook and cranny. personally ill blast the wheel wells and undercarriage from every possible angle with my pressure washer and a wide fan. also the engine bay- mainly just compressed air there. trunk and door jambs- anywhere dirt can hide. dirt really likes to sit hidden until the trigger on a spray gun is pulled.
might be wise to claybar the vehicle after washing,too.

on this:
will be block sanding the car by hand so I don't accidentally burn or go through to metal as easily.

it wont take long and youll be switching to a DA. i dont think you can burn through to metal with a da. your arms and shoulders will appreciate it,too.