Hello! Newbie, here.
I know spray cans are taboo in the automotive painting world, but I don't have a HVLP gun setup yet. I'm trying to paint my truck bumper gloss black. Etch primer went on great, primer went on great, paint was nice and glossy, but my clear coat looks terrible! I spray it, and it immediately goes on like this. I let the paint dry for a couple days in a heated garage (65-ish degrees), and as soon as I spray the clear it raises up like this. The first time this happened I let it dry, wet sanded, sprayed another coat of paint on (I went a little deep and got into the paint) and the paint looks great. I read somewhere that using 2 cans of clear pointed in the same spot would help because 1 can doesn't always spray enough volume to lay a proper coat. So, this time I used 2, and the same thing happened. What am I doing wrong? I'm using Rustoleum Professional enamel for the paint, and Rustoleum crystal clear enamel as the clear.
Sorry for it being a little blurry, but you can see what I'm talking about.
Thanks a ton.
Clear coat help?!
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And now you know firsthand why we do not advocate the rattle can paint jobs.
If you only knew how many times we see the same scenario and yet still everyone thinks its going to work for them. If you plan to use spray cans then go to a local automotive paint supplier and have them mix some for you but be ready to shell out some cash. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Top Contributor
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enamels have a sensitive state you might call it, were you need to get the consecutive coats on at a certain time in the cure stage. other wise you get what you have wrinkling or lifting as we call it. the best advice I can give you is to get on Rustoleums web site and see if you can get a the tech sheet for your products NOT the MSDS sheet that just tells you what it has in it and not to drink it. if its not available try and call them. what I think you should have done was to spray the black then let it flash until its good and tacky then put your clear on, don't let the black dry. your going to have to remove all the bad black and clear and start over. if you want I would experiment on a scrap piece and see how it works before doing the bumper again.
good luck Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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you can brush this stuff on without it looking to bad, direct to metal and decent toughness
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Okay, Rustoleum is just the name of the company....If you look up the two MSDS sheets on your products the color coat is stated as a true Alkyd enamel. Pretty much ingredients listed as what I would expect in an aerosol enamel product. Their clear coat on the other hand.... doesn't state what kind of clear it is but the ingredients are much hotter like I would find in....wait for it...... an aerosol lacquer. Lacquer over fairly fresh enamel and yes, you become the poster child for non-compatibility.
As the guys have already told you....just ditch this stuff and go in different direction..... any other "system" will be better than what you are trying to do...... Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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Top Contributor
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GOOD research by Darrel! if the clear is defiantly lacquer that's not going to work.
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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