Sanding a 10 year old re paint.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 12:16 pm
I re painted my daily driver 10 years ago with all PPG products. It is black single stage, and for the most part still looks amazing. But, both fenders now need to be replaced due to rust. Also, over time, there are fine surface scratches that won't buff out. And, after the first year or so, there was a little shrinkage on a few repairs. So, here is my question-if I wanted to sand down the existing finish, how aggressive could I get and not have to prime/block again? Ideally I'd like to do #400 wet and seal it again, but I'm wondering if that would be too aggressive? I'm sure #600 wet would be fine, but the #400 would get rid of some millage and get it even flatter before I re finish it again with the PPG single stage. Any thoughts? Would anyone suggest another grit, wet or dry? I got the car incredibly straight and flat the first time, (all long board, no d/a) and I want to make it just as nice (or better!) next time. Thanks!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 12:23 pm
400 is fine, would be able to SS right over it, maybe a little epoxy on burn thoughs before paint
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 12:54 pm
Do you think I could do #320 dry on a long board? My concern, or question, is that I'm re painting a re paint. It is obviously catalized, but not a baked factory finish. I just wasn't sure if there would be any issues or things to watch for when doing this. I was so pleased with the durability and shine of the PPG products, especially on an outside car, and a black one at that. It has held up remarkably well.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:41 pm
without really knowing you expected results it is hard to say, to me it sounds like a simple 320 DA sand ans paint job would fulfill your needs.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:58 pm
PainterDave wrote:without really knowing you expected results it is hard to say, to me it sounds like a simple 320 DA sand ans paint job would fulfill your needs.

My biggest concern was that I might have some visible sand scratches in the top coat. When I repainted it 10 years ago I did the final sand (I think) #320 dry, in the primer, prior to the sealer and single stage. Now, I'm just looking to sand the existing color to get out any tiny imperfections from my own paint job of 10 years ago. If you think 320 dry, followed by sealer again would do that, that would be great!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 2:13 pm
you could probably even dry DA sand with 500, problem with blocking and hand sanding the long scratches always seem to want to show up
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