As part of my repaint I first had to do some rust repair at the top of the door skin, where the rubber molding goes that presses against the window glass to prevent rainwater and other moisture from getting into the door interior.
Well, now that I'm putting everything back together the molding no longer presses snug against the window one section, where I didn't _quite_ get the inner and outer door skin completely snug together when welding-- I wound up filling the void with a touch of seam sealer.
Not surprisingly there's a slight gap between the window and the rubber molding at that section which I need to address. Are there some aftermarket or adjustible molding strips I can cut to size and/or use to plug the space?
Aftermarket / homemade rubber window molding?
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Pictures maybe
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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There are aftermarket suppliers for most all of the weatherstripping and seals on a car. Unless it is an unpopular or extremely rare older car, you should be able to order replacement seals for it.
Here's a link to one supplier: https://www.soffseal.com/store/Main.aspx 1968 Coronet R/T
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Here is another https://www.steelerubber.com/
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
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Thanks gentlemen. I've looked at both sites, and while there's no factory replacement for my car (1996 Dodge Neon) at either of them that's ok, since I need something a bit wider. I'm looking at some of the universal replacements at https://www.steelerubber.com/universal-parts and wondered if you had some suggestions on what area to focus on? Sponge extrusions? Dense extrusions? Push-on weatherstrip?
Here's a video of my issue to show where things stand. Thanks again: https://vimeo.com/249618478 |
How does the current weatherstrip attach? I was just wondering if you could shim/angle it somewhat for contact?
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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96 Neon window seals should be readily available ????
If not you should be able to find a usable out of a wrecking yard Dennis B.
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I should have taken a photo of a cross-section. Sorry about that, here's an edge-on shot: So it's essentially an inverted 'U' shape channel in which the inner and outer door skins meet. The trouble is the rubber part that presses against the window is pure rubber and I can't shape it into a steeper angle, so was wondering what sort of shim options might be available, and/or if some aftermarket trim might be 'wider' at the top and would fill the gap.
It's not that I need direct replacements, the seals I have are still functional, but I there's that gap to consider now. |
That's hard to shim with that steel reinforcement band running down through there....hmmm....wonder if one of those universal push-on types with a bulb would work? Might want to email that company with that pic. you just posted and see if they could comment on it......
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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If it were me I would:
1, remove the existing belt molding (weatherstrip) 2, either roll down or remove the door glass to get it out of the way for the next steps 3, remove any fixed door glass 4, cover the lip portion with several layers of masking tape also protect the outer door skin. 5, grab an 8 inch width of 2x4 and a 5 pound hammer 6, lay the 2x4 lengthwise on the lip in the area where the belt molding will cover only. DO NOT PLACE THE BOARD WHERE YOU WILL SEE THE OUTER SKIN 7, hammer away on the 2x4 center to push the lip back in. Be cautious start slow and increase force if needed. Move the 2x4 fore and aft to distribute the forces. Usually a visual inspection will get you where you need to be, but measure if you wish. You should be able to get that in without repainting at all. |
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