Long time lurker new member here.
I have a problem and I have attached photo's.
Painting my wifes 2003 lexus ex300 hood using ppg paint Onyx black P202 to match from a local store.
3 coats base with 15 minute flash time (1.5 tip)
3 coats clear with 15 minute flash time (1.3 tip)
Tools: Devilbiss Finishline spray gun model 670
Upright compressor capable of 150 psi output.
Air dryer attached to gun.
2:1 base and 4:1 clear strained into cup
Outside temp 68 degrees
Dry Arizona climate
One week between clear and buff/cut.
I do paint outdoors because I don't want to ruin my garage.

Buff and cut in order of steps.
1500
2000
3000
4000
3m rubbing compound
Meguiars machine glaze
Meguiars polish
As you can see after my second try what a disaster this turns out to be.
The paint looks orange peely in spots and I've buffed almost all the way thru to the base and can't get rid of this look.
Please help, I am about to give up and take it to a shop.
Wasted 250 in materials thus far and am down to my last quart and try.

I hate buffing but get by so I can't help you much. but you could have got on it with your buffer in 24 to 36 hours it buffs much easier. I even cut it the next day. you should have enough film thickness with 3 good coats of clear to get your o/p out unless it was real bad. you've got to get it all sanded off smooth the o/p that is. if it was deep you should have probably started with 1000 or 1200, 1500 won't cut much. keep your paper fresh, are you doing it by hand wet or dry or with a d/a. pads make a big difference, what are you using? I like to do my first cut with old school wool pad then use the foam. did I tell you I hate buffing.
you could try another coat of clear and try for no o/p. what reducer were you using at 68 air temp. I hate to think what the black body might have been if any sun light was on it even a cloudy day will make the metal temps skyrocket, not good for o/p. I did tell you I hate buffing didn't I .
Jay D.

Your fourth photo looks like you still have peel in there, same as I did my first time. If I had to guess you need to start below 1500 grit, as badsix recommended.

My second attempt I wound up starting with 800 grit, and by going to 1000 from there, then 1200, 1500 and 2000 I finally got things looking good. I had the same number of coats as you (three clear) and didn't burn through, although I was careful with the 800 grit and only used that to knock the worst of the peel down.

First, I'll guess and say that you didn't have enough compressor for the job or you in the least don't have that gun adjusted well. So you got orange peel in your base and then in your clear. All those little glossy divots (craters) must be connected to achieve a flat/level coating. You should go down to 800 for this or as also said hit it with clear coat again. What are you using for a buffing machine/pads? Whatever it is....not near enough buffing action. I too, still start with twisted wool (it's old school but faster for me) and move on to foam.

can ya tell us exactly what machine youre using to buff with and exactly what products for buffing?3m rubbing compound, Meguiars machine glaze, Meguiars polish leaves the door open for a wide variety of products from each. it reads like the basic auto supply products at either the local wally world or autobone.
what machine and pads were used is important too.
if your getting any base color on your pads or in the water used when sanding, youve cut through the clear to base.

badsix wrote:I hate buffing but get by so I can't help you much. but you could have got on it with your buffer in 24 to 36 hours it buffs much easier. I even cut it the next day. you should have enough film thickness with 3 good coats of clear to get your o/p out unless it was real bad. you've got to get it all sanded off smooth the o/p that is. if it was deep you should have probably started with 1000 or 1200, 1500 won't cut much. keep your paper fresh, are you doing it by hand wet or dry or with a d/a. pads make a big difference, what are you using? I like to do my first cut with old school wool pad then use the foam. did I tell you I hate buffing.
you could try another coat of clear and try for no o/p. what reducer were you using at 68 air temp. I hate to think what the black body might have been if any sun light was on it even a cloudy day will make the metal temps skyrocket, not good for o/p. I did tell you I hate buffing didn't I .
Jay D.

I started out with 1500 on a DA which took what seemed like forever to get it down to where it is at (Tiny bumps across the board.) What's odd is that there are some dull patches with sand marks at what looks to be under the clear. May be an optical illusion but if I concentrate on those dull spots I hope they go away and blend. It was a windy day when I painted as well. I really appreciate your help. Oh yea....and buffing sucks.

tomsteve wrote:can ya tell us exactly what machine youre using to buff with and exactly what products for buffing?3m rubbing compound, Meguiars machine glaze, Meguiars polish leaves the door open for a wide variety of products from each. it reads like the basic auto supply products at either the local wally world or autobone.
what machine and pads were used is important too.
if your getting any base color on your pads or in the water used when sanding, youve cut through the clear to base.

Im buffing with both a DA. Can you recommend the products to get the job done on the buffing side? I currently use Meguiars 105 for the glaze - 3m liquid Rubbing Compound - Meguiar's G19216 Ultimate Polish - 16 oz., Multicolor.

Pads: For buffing A Meguiars soft yellow foam
Glaze the same
Polish - blue waffle
No color yet but I'm getting mighty **** close now. There appears to be a hazed patch with light sand marks under the clear coat which wont go away.

larryq wrote:Your fourth photo looks like you still have peel in there, same as I did my first time. If I had to guess you need to start below 1500 grit, as badsix recommended.

My second attempt I wound up starting with 800 grit, and by going to 1000 from there, then 1200, 1500 and 2000 I finally got things looking good. I had the same number of coats as you (three clear) and didn't burn through, although I was careful with the 800 grit and only used that to knock the worst of the peel down.

I am so close to cutting through the clear now that I'm afraid if I go back to 800 I'll rub right thru. That's whats odd. No matter how much I wet sand the little pimple like marks don't seem yo go away. There are also hazy spots under the clear with light sanding marks on them even though I did not sand the base.

DarrelK wrote:First, I'll guess and say that you didn't have enough compressor for the job or you in the least don't have that gun adjusted well. So you got orange peel in your base and then in your clear. All those little glossy divots (craters) must be connected to achieve a flat/level coating. You should go down to 800 for this or as also said hit it with clear coat again. What are you using for a buffing machine/pads? Whatever it is....not near enough buffing action. I too, still start with twisted wool (it's old school but faster for me) and move on to foam.

The compressor worked fine but I did set the Devilbiss Finishline 670 to 12psi as recommended. I did get orange peel in my base because it was windy that day and I was in a hurry. You could hear the circus music in the background while I was painting. What do you suggest?

Whoa......back the truck up here....You had the gun set at WHAT? 12 p.s.i......????? Don't those guns call for a minimum of 23 p.s.i. with a full trigger pull?????