That's a nice color. I always resist color changes unless it's one I simply can't live with. I like for the color to match the car's paint code; makes for higher resale value too.

Dub-Nub wrote:Also, because it is an epoxy primer that i will be using. I can begin spray painting the car in sections such as trunk, doors, etc., while driving it around ........

Since you're going to drive it while doing the prep work, pick up a box of TSP to wash off the road grime. Don't sand until after a thorough cleaning, to prevent grit and oils from getting into the primer. TSP is the best at cutting grease, even better than Dawn.

I found a local auto body shop that donated a hood so I may practice spraying it and body repairs. This is going to be a fun project! My parts are beginning to arrive finally.

Dub-Nub wrote: I am going to opt out of using a sealer. I will go with epoxy primer, 2k build primer, then straight to base coat.

Why would you go through all that prep, and then opt out of the sealer stage? I only do little projects and the one time that I skipped the sealer (reduced down HOK KD3000) my color bled through inconsistently. I sanded it down and reshot the whole thing.

BTW, I think that original color with the satin trim is sharp!

OldFatBald wrote:

Dub-Nub wrote: I am going to opt out of using a sealer. I will go with epoxy primer, 2k build primer, then straight to base coat.

Why would you go through all that prep, and then opt out of the sealer stage? I only do little projects and the one time that I skipped the sealer (reduced down HOK KD3000) my color bled through inconsistently. I sanded it down and reshot the whole thing.

BTW, I think that original color with the satin trim is sharp!

There are many ways of doing a job. I am calling people and reading posts.

My local auto paint supplier says i can go straight from epoxy primer that has been block sanded to base coat.
This isn't a show car finish, and i'll be happy if the paint lasts 5 years.

I may even opt out of build primer, so who knows.
I enjoy reading everyones input, and it is unfortunately that your color bled through. It may not have been due to sealer, as there are tons of topics related to not needing a sealer or even a base primer.

But for $90, i may as well do a build primer.
https://www.autobody101.com/store/paint ... rimer-kit/

This is my daily driver, and if i had a week to do this project, i would definitely opt in for a sealer and doing all the sanding, spraying, sanding, spraying.

My time is limited at this point, and i have 2 days to prep and spray epoxy, then 2 days for base and clear.

yes your right you can block the epoxy and shoot your base right on it. or you can mix the epoxy as a sealer and use it on top, but not required. also if your in a real hurry you could just seal the bare metal with the epoxy then go right to your base. there are many way this can be done just depends on how YOU want to do it and how YOU want it to look.
Jay D.

where can i purchase 600 grit and 320 grit paper for my sanding blocks? I cannot spend $40 per grit per roll, not conducive for a one time job. I need an affordable solution.

Any auto body supplier should have 9x11 wet or dry sheets, then you cut to fit your block. almost all the local hardware stores and auto parts stores I my area have them also.
Jay D.

I met with a Tamco distributor this weekend that lives in my town, was a great chat. Picked up some tamco product

Euro clear
High build primer

We talked process and do's and dont's.

It will be the following

strip car down to metal
putty any repairs needed and block sand
spray epoxy primer
wait overnight
spray first couple coats of high build
block sand with 320
spray more coats of high build
wet sand with 600

base and clear

He mentioned some local paint booths that can be utilized and he would assist also, if need be. So i will be doing the epoxy primer and high build in my garage booth then taking it over to a paint booth for base and clear.

So started to practice spraying and I think my previously purchased epoxy or hardener is bad.
This is universal primer with hardener mixed 1:1.

This pattern on the cup is what I'm seeing on the paint after laying down the coats.


Going to meet up with local tamco distributor to use some new hardener and test it out.

Anyone see this with old hardener?

Sanded panel with 80 to metsl. Used wax and grease then fill isopropyl wipedown. Wait 10 mins and shoot
I thought about solvent pop from remover but the container itself is showing same sign so it's a reaction between product.

Dub-Nub wrote:We talked process and do's and dont's.

It will be the following

strip car down to metal
putty any repairs needed and block sand
spray epoxy primer
wait overnight
spray first couple coats of high build
block sand with 320
spray more coats of high build
wet sand with 600

Blocking first round of Hi build with just 320 or 600 is not gonna work
I can see starting with 180 maybe and working up to the finer grits after its been opened up But going strait to 600 is not gonna work very well to get it nice and flat.