Basic Coat patchy clouding/hazing/fogging

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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2018 8:31 pm
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Hello all, so this is my first time posting a question in any forum , but I'm an avid DIYer recently took on the task touching up my car paint. As it goes, the touch up project turned into a let's paint the whole car project. I own a 2016 Hyundai Elantra SE that only had 9000 miles when I purchased it last summer. The OEM paint is Venetian Red Pearl, paint code TR 2. After trying some custom mixed paints from scratch Wizard and automotive touch up , I discovered that Dupli-Color perfect match premium automotive paint Toreador red metallic, paint code FL in (Ford line ups) Blended beautifully with my Venetian Red Pearl, and was much more reasonably priced. I've noticed that while spray painting the fourth and fifth coats, which are slightly wetter than the light dusting/tack layer qualities of the first few layers, the paint dries in patches of cloudy or hazy paint, with other patches perfect looking base coat layer. I have noticed the Cloudy effect on light dusting layers too, but it is more pronounced when there is a wet layer. It doesn't happen all the time, and I have tried to rule out variables, including wait time between coats which I varied from 10 minutes to a few hours, environmental conditions including slightly colder weather in the 50s and warmer weather in the 70s, painting indoors and Outdoors, and standing between layers versus leaving the layer as is before painting. It doesn't seem to affect whether the clouding happens or not, and it seems to be random, but does not dry off with time. I have heard that this can happen to clear coat with humid conditions, and this may be the case since I live in Seattle. But there is not much out there dealing with this issue in base coat. I have included pictures and would be so grateful to anybody who can help me out and figuring out what's going on and how to prevent this from happening. And if it is possible to correct how do I do this? Thanks

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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2018 9:48 pm
So you are shooting a lacquer based paint in Seattle, huh.....yeah, you're doomed....just kidding..... Okay, so this is called "blushing" and happens as moist air is literally "trapped" in the coating as it dries. It has a lot to do with "dew point" temperatures. A warm, dry, room and not pushing the coating too fast should help. Once you "see" blushing you usually can remove it by doing a light mist of a quality lacquer thinner over the area to "open" the coat back up and let the moisture evaporate. If you don't have a spray gun for the lacquer thinner just pick up one of those Preval style sprayers. Just a very light mist should do it.
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2018 7:53 am
i hope ya dont plan on painting the whole car with that.
duplicolor isnt a whole car project paint

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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2018 8:18 am
I didn't want to get into that but....he's right you know. Lacquer is pretty old tech. when it comes to auto paints. Our modern environment starts tearing it up from day one. Acid rain, rail dust, smog, etc., makes it temp. coating.......
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2018 1:08 pm
Thanks so much for the help! Do you have any brands you would recommend that are better quality. I am gonna pick up a devilbliss HVLP gun this week and rent a compressor, so I can do it right. Im sick of the inconsistent sprays from rattle cans...

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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2018 2:04 pm
Get out your wallet and get ready to dig deep..... going from rattle cans to pro style base/clear systems is a big step. Even the "budget" lines of base/clears sure ain't cheap. You can quickly get $1000 plus by the time you set up even for simple repair work. If I was planning from scratch and had nothing to start with I'd figure $3000 for everything (that would include my compressor though). Can't really recommend any one particular brand over another as I don't know what kind of paint jobbers (that's your paint supplier) you might have around you. Best thing to start with is to go up to the Info Center at the top right of the page and read, read, read, before you buy anything......
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2018 8:33 pm
jaycoh47 wrote:Thanks so much for the help! Do you have any brands you would recommend that are better quality. I am gonna pick up a devilbliss HVLP gun this week and rent a compressor, so I can do it right. Im sick of the inconsistent sprays from rattle cans...


I have to agree with DarrelK's post above. Read and ask a lot of questions if you are going to jump into spraying cars.

Don't buy anything yet. Save your money and take your time. Which Devilbiss gun? Buying a POS Starting Line gun ain't gonna save you any money, but a lot of guys love the upper level Devilbiss guns. What compressor are you going to rent? It probably isn't big enough to do an entire car.

These forums and these guys have YEARS of knowledge and are willing to help. Much better than 30 years ago when the only guy you could ask was the meth addict down the street...or a one and a half page article in Car Craft magazine!


Did you really paint an entire 2016 car with rattle-bombs? How many cans is that?
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2018 9:59 pm
I wrote this article to help give a basic understanding of what is involved.
https://www.autobody101.com/content/art ... ould-know/
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2018 12:12 am
you better have a thick wallet, as that color is probably one of the more expensive you can buy.
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2018 8:22 am
jayco, if ya still want to consider it after the previous replies, you may want to chose a different color over the toreador red metallic. i had a taurus with that and its a tri coat, meaning theres a base, then midcoat, then clearcoat. its not a process for first time painters to do and achieve good results.

even after renting a compressor(which youre going to need a pretty big compressor for a full paint- not a 20 or so gallon), ya need air filtrations/moisture removal.
hopefully the devilbiss youre looking at is at least the finishline 3. i have a tekna i use for base and clear- mighty nice but also mighty pricey for a one time.

take some time and study. look locally for jobbers and what brands of paint they sell.

what brands that are better quality depends on what you want the final results to be.


how about a few pics of the whole car? i dont know much but a 2 year old car shouldnt have that many problems with the paint on it.
what would be the motive to repaint the whole car?

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