Tiger striping in base coat

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 7:47 pm
I just finished spraying my hood with black basecoat, and noticed some tiger striping. Came inside, did some research, and I believe it was from me not holding the gun perpendicular to the hood when painting, it was angled when I was trying to reach the middle areas. Now that the coat has dried, is there any way to fix the striping? Light sanding, then a recoat of base? I'm using Tamco paint products.



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 7:58 pm
I wouldn't sand Base coat that's a No No usually!!!!

I believe you can just re-spay it UNLESS you already cleared it. If so youl need to let it dry and sand it.
I looked on there web sight for info I couldn't find anything about re coat windows but I didn't look very hard either.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 8:44 pm
They only list the tech sheets for the primers and clears, not the base paint unfortunately. I had heard that sanding the base coat was usually a no no, but I wasn't sure if I could recoat tomorrow.



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 11:05 pm
I don't know much about Tamcos Products sorry I am an ********** Guy.
With ********** You'd just let it flash off and re spray it no problem.
********** Base coats can be re coated with itself at anytime till Clear goes down.
********** also has 24 7 Tech assistance if and when needed....

I would call Tamco in the morning just to be sure BUT I am pretty sure your ok just respraying it then do your clear coat.
As long as your happy with the way it lays down?
No heavy orange peel no bugs no dirt no trash etc.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 3:09 pm
Pony Boy wrote:I just finished spraying my hood with black basecoat, and noticed some tiger striping. Came inside, did some research, and I believe it was from me not holding the gun perpendicular to the hood when painting, it was angled when I was trying to reach the middle areas. Now that the coat has dried, is there any way to fix the striping? Light sanding, then a recoat of base? I'm using Tamco paint products.



is it just a solid black ? if it is covered i doubt you would see striping after clear
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 8:40 am
How many coats of base are on the car now? Usually with a solid color you won't get tiger stripes like with a metallic paint but rather stripes where the base went on heavier in places. Full coverage (true color) once achieved should eliminate that.

You will need to find out from Tamco to be sure. Generally it is like Doright said, you can shoot more base over base without sanding.
If you do sand the base coat plan on respraying the entire panel with another coat or two.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 2:07 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:...Generally it is like Doright said, you can shoot more base over base without sanding.
If you do sand the base coat plan on respraying the entire panel with another coat or two.


Just to clarify another one of my rookie questions:
Most of the BCs tech sheets that I have seen say that to add the Clear, it is a minimum of 30 minutes and a maximum of 24 hours

If say 48 hours went by after applying the BC;
* Would you need to sand\scuff the dry basecoat, then spray more BC, then the clear?
* or can you just spray on more BC without scuffing? Then of course shoot the clear within the window.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 5:16 pm
OldFatBald wrote:If say 48 hours went by after applying the BC;
* Would you need to sand\scuff the dry basecoat, then spray more BC, then the clear?


Yes.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 8:17 am
OldFatBald wrote:
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:...Generally it is like Doright said, you can shoot more base over base without sanding.
If you do sand the base coat plan on respraying the entire panel with another coat or two.


Just to clarify another one of my rookie questions:
Most of the BCs tech sheets that I have seen say that to add the Clear, it is a minimum of 30 minutes and a maximum of 24 hours

If say 48 hours went by after applying the BC;
* Would you need to sand\scuff the dry basecoat, then spray more BC, then the clear?
* or can you just spray on more BC without scuffing? Then of course shoot the clear within the window.



that 24 hour window is at 70 degrees and whatever humidity it is tested at.

you have to consider the 15 degree rule.

for every 15 degrees over 70 you windows are cut in half.

so 24 hour window is at 70 degrees

at 85 degrees your window is now 12

at 100 degrees your window is 6 hours


copied and pasted some infor below

The 15 Degree Rule
For every 15 degree increase in temperature above 70 degrees, a products dry time may
be cut in 1/2.
For every 15 degree decrease in temperature below 70 degrees, a products dry time may
double.
The 2 areas we want to take a look at are Flash Time and Pot Life. All these times will be listed
on your P-bullitions or product information sheets. You can print these off in Tech area.
Flash Time - this is the evaporation rate between coats of paint. The time from the finish of your
first coat of paint and the start of you second coat.
Pot Life - this is the length of time that products are useable once they are mixed together (ex.
clear & catalyst).
Cure Time - the amount of time before the paint finish is fully cured.
DP-LF primer &
DP402LF 55 Degrees 70 Degrees 85 Degrees
Flash Time 20-30 minutes 10-15 minutes 5-10 minutes
Pot Life 16 hours 8 hours 4 hours
DBU Color
Flash Time 20-30 minutes 10-15 minutes 5-10 minutes
Pot Life 8 hours 4 hours 2 hours
DC4000 - Clear
Flash Time 12 minutes 6 minutes 3 minutes
Pot Life 3 hours 1 1/2 hours 45 miutes
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:52 pm
I certainly did not know of that 15 degree rule and that definitely applies to my Pig Bar shop area as the (non-existent) AC never seems to work and gets to 100 degrees no problem.

Another example of some great help from the experts, thanks again guys!
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