Ok, I know this isn't the right way to do any of this but it's my first time attempting this so I've learned more every search I've done. Perhaps I jumped in too soon as well.

I recently purchased a bike and the tank started leaking, that lead me to find some significant damage that had been covered up with body filler. I straightened what I could, patched the tank and filled it with body filler. I found the stock colors on colorrite.com and ordered their primer, and 3 stage aerosol paint system. Well then I learned automotive clear coat is catalyzed paint... After I painted and cleared the tank. It's a 1 part urethane aerosol clear coat. The whole thing turned out really great it's just not solvent resistant. So I want to turn around and out the 2k clear on it but I painted it 3 days ago.
Can I apply it straight on, will the solvents cause the previous coats to soften allowing the 2k to adhere? Do I can't first? If so, grit and wet or dry?
Can I do it at all or are the paints completely incompatible?
I've called colorrite to no avail and scoured many forums but nobody seems to have messed up as badly as I. I'm really hoping "start over" isn't the answer.

Putting a 2k clear over an aerosol clear is probably not going to be a good idea. The final result of a project is only as good as the weakest link in the overall process.

Additionally, you'll never get a great seal on the paint around the filler hole in the tank, and the underlying aerosol paint will likely be attacked by fuel vapors over time and will delaminate.

If it was my project and the bike was important to me, I'd chem strip what's on there now and redo it using traditional automotive refinishing products.

As i got into the project, it seems like the whole tank had already been repainted. the gas leaking out of the hole was peeling off the paint.
i'm just looking for something that will get me through a year or two until i buy a new tank. at that point, i'll get the catalyzed paint and redo the fairings and everything.
i just wanna know if i can put 2k clear over the aerosol paint and if so, if the solvent in the 2k will soften the rattle can paint enough to bond or if sanding is required. it's a pearl paint so i'm leary of sanding too much and ruining the pearl.

throw that tank in the trash. i highly doubt the gas and fumes will not makes its way under the paint again.

Skant153 wrote:As i got into the project, it seems like the whole tank had already been repainted. the gas leaking out of the hole was peeling off the paint.
i'm just looking for something that will get me through a year or two until i buy a new tank. at that point, i'll get the catalyzed paint and redo the fairings and everything.
i just wanna know if i can put 2k clear over the aerosol paint and if so, if the solvent in the 2k will soften the rattle can paint enough to bond or if sanding is required. it's a pearl paint so i'm leary of sanding too much and ruining the pearl.

Chris already answered this question. I am sorry you didn't do your research first before investing all that time and money into this job.
The rattle can paints are not compatible with the superior 2k products. Chances are you will watch your nice looking paint job begin to wrinkle, blister and crack right before your eyes. Ultimately this will happen anyway since the gasoline fumes will do the same thing.

Painterdave has the right idea. Get a new or good used tank and then follow the proper steps using the proper materials.

At this point, why don't you just try it and see.
What have you got to loose, you need to strip it and start over anyway.
Back in the day when urethanes first came out, custom painters
put it over lacquer all the time, especially strong graphics.
That was the way to do it, that was before base coat was even heard of.
And it held up fine.
Sand it, spray it, and let us know how long it lasts

well, live and learn.

this is a 97 fireblade. the tank is molded to the frame and air box so only the 96 and 97 tanks are a match. those aren't available used (especially not without significant damage) and they're $750+ new from what i have found. hence looking to get something that'll last for a season or two until i buy a new tank.

i guess i'll strip this and repaint.

JCCLARK wrote:At this point, why don't you just try it and see.
What have you got to loose, you need to strip it and start over anyway.
Back in the day when urethanes first came out, custom painters
put it over lacquer all the time, especially strong graphics.
That was the way to do it, that was before base coat was even heard of.
And it held up fine.
Sand it, spray it, and let us know how long it lasts

DO THIS,^^^ I only used ColorRight one time and had a bad experience, but isn't it a lacquer? you can urethane clear over lacquer. another trick I use to do with tanks is were the fuel filler opening is and you mask inside of the filler. take a small brush and seal that area the tape line with epoxy.
Jay D.

i thought the color rite turned out looking pretty good considering the lack of skill level of the applicator.
according to the website, their aerosol is a urethane but who really knows.
I have a test panel from before i did the tank, i guess i'll mix up some clear and toss it on there to see what happens to the paint.

JCCLARK wrote:At this point, why don't you just try it and see.
What have you got to loose, you need to strip it and start over anyway.
Back in the day when urethanes first came out, custom painters
put it over lacquer all the time, especially strong graphics.
That was the way to do it, that was before base coat was even heard of.
And it held up fine.
Sand it, spray it, and let us know how long it lasts

I agree, either just shoot the clear on it and see what happens or just leave the paint as it is. Who cares if it isn't solvent resistant if you only want it to last a couple of years.

What is that bike worth being 20 years old $2.5k to $3k, ie don't spend $750 on a tank.

I understand being on a budget, so take a chance with the spray can clear, and if it wrinkles, sand it off and re spray bomb just the paint again.

Then if you can find a buddy who welds sheet metal, you could always skin it then do the body work correctly later.