chopolds wrote: If that's your first job, I'd say stop, strip and reshoot. Y
or find a nice vinyl decal to go over the spot after the paints cured.
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or find a nice vinyl decal to go over the spot after the paints cured. |
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The wealth of advice is much appreciated. As for sanding the buggy down past gel coat, well i meant to say clear coat. It was flaking terribly and based on additional web advice, i was advised to sand the clear down. If the vinyl won't work out, then i will have to bite the bullet and sand it all down back to the sealer....unless i should stop at the base silver? I should have stopped at the candy but, i had a vision of some metal flake. I have to admit, the candy looked great...no runs and no tiger stripes. Could be because my devilbiss starting line gun with 1.5 tip wouldn't pattern very well at 26lbs...looked like an hourglass. So at 16lbs the fan had a consistent flow pattern. Is this normal for I've been told that clear needs high flow for atomization. If the gun is the issue, I'm open for input on a better gun...maybe the gti pro-lite. Thanks again for your insight.
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Your photos look good.
I wouldn't reshoot that whole car if it does look that good. Where is the defect? I would see if you can smooth it out and instead of a decal shoot some kind of graphics, stripe etc. Did you say that you shot flake over the candy? Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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that's my thought, graphics done right look good, graphics done bad look bad.
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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Yes, it has flake over the candy. The spot is on the front fender... I shot another coat of candy over the 600gr sand gas door ring and it looks amazing. |
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Attached are pics. . |
Looks great. But just to clarify, did you shoot flake in an IC (intercoat clear) or CC (regular hardened clear) over a candy base? or Shoot a standard base, then candy concentrate in an IC, then shoot the flake and bury in CC? The reason that I ask, is that I have switched to using a silver or gold metallic base that I usually dump some more small flake or some dry pearls into, wait to dry, then shoot my candies over that. And man do I know what you mean by hooked! Your photos look great, more projects and more photos! Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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I laid silver base coat, then the candy. Then 1.5 oz flake per liter of clear coat with hardener. After that, two more coats of candy and 3 coats of clear. After scuffing and waiting a few days, I sprayed another 3 coats clear. Looks like glass.
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Really take a good hard look at everything when you mount it. With that much film build it has to flex with your body. Once everything is well mounted you might want someone else drive the car on a road where you can drive around it so you can see if anything is shaking or flexing abnormally. I've seen a lot of cracking near wheel wells on kit cars and dune buggies because those areas were almost "flapping" as the cars were driven. President of one of the local ricer clubs built a custom nose for his car and thought it was well supported.....uh no, cracks started showing in just a few weeks. I sat down and drew up a interior skeleton of tubing that he could then tie into the front of chassis. He fixed all the glass work and no more cracking.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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As i was doing body work on the buggy, I reinforced the rear section for the prior paint showed stress cracks and also the entry sides. Under each front fender, I laid additional fiberglass to strengthen that area. Lets just hope all goes well hitting a speed bump. Anyhow, I am very well pleased in how my first tri color paint job turned out. Thanks for everyone's advice.
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