I need some advice on what to do tomorrow on my trunk that I started some graphics on today.
It took longer (as usual) than I expected and I had to quit for the night.
I started the day with my base silver color that had been cleared and sanded with 800.
I did not clear coat anything tonight, just left the IC (Inter Coat) with candies to dry.
The center section is part of the area that hasn’t been painted with anything yet so that area is fine.
The bottom section with the sun on the left and the brown fan patterns on the right are a little too busy for me on this project so I am going to sand those with some 600 and then hit them with some HOK Silver Sealer, so I should be fine with those areas.
My question is what to do with the top section of roses which I want to keep.
For the top area tomorrow morning:
1) Can I just hit it with some Inter Coat Clear to keep the clear coat window open?
2) I have some HOK Rokket Clear – Should I use that on only the roses, then sand later in the day when I shoot a MS Clear over the complete trunk lid?
3) Scuff with a red or grey scuff pad prior to the overall MS Clear?
4) Sand with 800 prior to the overall MS Clear
I really don’t like the idea of scuffing or sanding on the detail of the roses, but just aren’t sure what to do next.
BTW, I do have some HOK AP01 adhesion promoter if I should use that – If so do I just shoot on a thin coat and wait 5 minutes then hit it with some intercoat clear??
Help with Basecoat/Intercoat drying overnight
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Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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you are trying to get rid of the sun ?
you could clear the whole piece sand with 800 and redo whatever you want ? AP-01 works good i use it often. Experienced Trained Certified
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I want to redo both of the lower parts, the sun and the brown area. I don't like the way the colors flow. I would like to stay away from clearing the entire trunk lid so that I don't lose and have to redo a lot of my taping that I still have. Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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The blue arrows and the white line below are some of the tape out lines that I still have and that I would like to try to save.
Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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DBC is good, can always give it a light scuff with gray pad next day.
you doing some cool stuff keep it up Experienced Trained Certified
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Well, since I didn’t really know what I was doing, do this as a weekend hobbyist and can always sand it off and start over – I woke my kid up and gave it a shot.
I didn’t scuff the roses at all as I experimented on a small area of the lower right brown area as I will be redoing that area in a different design anyways. Glad that I did, that BC was fairly easy to scratch off with a grey scuff pad. I finished up the other area of graphics – which took a LOT longer than I can explain, shoot color, wait, shoot more color wait, back tape, wait, shoot color, wait, etc, etc, etc. Then when it was time to clear, I use the HOK AP01 adhesion promoter. Didn’t really know how to use it, so I shot it out of my 1.3 tip Basecoat gun straight outta the can, pretty light coat, had my clear already mixed and cupped up, waited 3 minutes and started to clear. * I guess I will see how it holds up. I still haven’t got the flakes and pearl buried in clear yet, not sure what I did so I will probably scuff it again then try the AP01 prior to adding more clear. I’m not done with the artwork anyways as I want to add to the sun area and change the other brown panel’s design. Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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next time more coat of clear buddy, sand that down i usually use 500/800 reclear and repeat,
takes awhile to bury flake be patient Experienced Trained Certified
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In my spray booth, the 95 degree pig barn, I get kinda nervous after the third heavy coat of clear. Even using a slow reducer. Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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just let it flash, youll be ok.
Experienced Trained Certified
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This is another area that I get nervous about, I always check with my finger or thumb that the previous coat of clear is not stringy and that it is "tacky" The data sheet of the MS clear that I am using says " "... Allow to flash 10-15 minutes between coats. Never allow product to dry to a tack free surface before applying additional coats. If allowed to dry to a tack free surface you must wait 24 hours then scuff lightly before applying additional coats..." I know that each set of conditions, air temp, humidity, panel temp, air flow, brand, product etc etc all effect drying times but: * How long in general can I wait in-between coats? * Should I be waiting more than the 10-15 minutes between coats (in my 95 deg pig barn?) * Is there any advantage to allowing more time in-between coats to let the material off gas even after it is NOT stringy at all, but still tacky? Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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14 posts
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