Whenever you're airbrushing or painting with basecoat over basecoat, the basecoat usually bites right into the basecoat.
I've let painting items sit for long periods of time, then went right back to airbrushing or painting on them, with no scuffing and never had a problem.
AP01 does help, but you really didn't need to use it.
The time when you really have to be concerned with scuffing the surface and recoat windows is when you're working with catalyzed paint like urethanes. For example, I'm painting on a helmet that was basecoated 2 months ago. ( I had a car wreck and was unable to work for a while.) I want to spray some clearc urethane on it, so I gave it a coat of basecoat clear (intercoat clear), I'll wait for a half hour then apply the urethane.
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Crazy Horse Custom Paint
And Author of How to Custom Paint Your Car
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
So you are saying not to activate the base coat if you plan to add graphics, etc.?
1968 Coronet R/T
Thanks for the help and suggestions, as a weekender rookie hack that is way too new to this you cannot imagine how much I appreciate the help from your experts!
I don't activate my urethane basecoats, just reduce them to get them RTS (ready to spray), so your saying that I can leave them for a week no problem without clearing?
That is awesome as my time window to work on these little projects of mine are limited and vary.
I keep RTS IC (Intercoat clear) around for diluting colors or mixing pearls etc, so shooting a coat of IC prior to a clear coat is no problem.
Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
OldFatBald i do not recommend leaving your basecoat out for a week before clearing,
you risk delamination
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