1958 PV444 repaint what kind of paint to buy?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2018 2:20 pm
What Darrel said.^^^ and be sure to ask questions, better to ask than wish you would have asked.
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 3:11 pm
badsix wrote:What Darrel said.^^^ and be sure to ask questions, better to ask than wish you would have asked.
Jay D. Excellent :) I have been stripping the car slowly and came across a couple really poor repair areas R. door and R. quarter panel both with 3/8" of bondo. After bernzomaticking and scraping this is what I am left with on the Q. panel. My question is if I should just cut out the beat up section and replace (I do have a good clean Q. Panel on another car) or should I try to hammer/dolly/push/pull all those dings and dents. It looks like someone beat it from the inside with the round end of a ball peen hammer or something. The door had huge amounts of bondo as well but no huge dents and dings like the q. panel.
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previous cars-'61 Daimler SP250, '77 Avanti II, '77 Mercedes 280E, still have my '67 Chevy C10 long-bed.



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 9:28 pm
if your handy with a welder and body tools I would just replace the quarter if you have a GOOD one. i'm not sure were I would start I've never worked on one of those. you could just use part of the panel or the complete quarter you will be able to see on the donor car what it involves. hopefully you have a good door also.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 12:53 am
badsix wrote: i'm not sure were I would start I've never worked on one of those. you could just use part of the panel or the complete quarter you will be able to see on the donor car what it involves. hopefully you have a good door also.
Jay D.

No door on the donor car, I've got most of it pushed back out but it has some oil canning going on too, it also seems to be slightly lower on the door skin around where it hits the outer frame all the way around.I am hoping I can be patient enough to get it to the point of needing a skim coat but we'll see. These cars are uni-body cars, the outer skin of the quarters are very accessible from the b-pillar all the way back to the tail lights. I just need to look into whether I will have to weld cross supports in while the partial quarter is cut out, this I have no idea of. It is a lot more work than I was hoping for, as usual.
Thanks for the input
previous cars-'61 Daimler SP250, '77 Avanti II, '77 Mercedes 280E, still have my '67 Chevy C10 long-bed.



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 11:19 am
yep, it looks like its stretched quite a lot. that why I suggested replacing all or part of the quarter panel. this depends on your comfortable skill level, I do it all the time so its easy for me that's why I suggested that way. you can just take your time and flatten that area as best you can. then your going to need to shrink it some . do you have a stud gun most come with a shrinking tip and they work good. you can use a acetylene torch also, its just a little more complicated. you'll want to heat a spot about the size of a nickel just to were it starts to turn red then let it cool. a lot of people like to cool with a cold wet rag but that tends to temper the metal some making it more difficult to shape it with a hammer and dolly. do you have a picture of the door damage?
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 1:59 pm
You might want to post your metal working questions in the Welding and Metal Fabrication forum. Chevman is the guy who knows how to work troubled metal and can help guide you.
Here's a link to an article he wrote on the subject: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18781
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 12:47 am
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:You might want to post your metal working questions in the Welding and Metal Fabrication forum. Chevman is the guy who knows how to work troubled metal and can help guide you.
Here's a link to an article he wrote on the subject: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18781

Thank you for that!! :)
previous cars-'61 Daimler SP250, '77 Avanti II, '77 Mercedes 280E, still have my '67 Chevy C10 long-bed.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 5:16 pm
Norgermish wrote:...I do have a couple D/A's pretty sure they are 6", but I am not sure what you mean by "lock the rotation" though...


How do you lock out a DA?
I have the cheapy version in the Hutchins line - I think that it is a ProFinisher 500H

To the OP, cool project!
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 7:38 pm
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I don't think you can lock the finish sanders. these are heavy duty sanders note the small round knob you can turn that and reduce the oscillation distance. some have a slide ring that locks the main shaft. yours is probably 3/16 these were probably 1/4 - 3/8 and there may be finish sander that do lock. I have about 8 of them and I don't think any of them lock unless maybe you can looks under the pad and maybe there's a locking mechanism.
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 8:04 pm
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if paint removal is what your after this is the way to go. the air sander has an 8" foam pad that will also fit the Makita both work real good for paint removal. I use a 36 or 40 grit paper or the clean and strip disc its also 8". don't confuse these with a grinder these are much slower rpm's. you'll need a good compressor to run the air sander.
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