What Darrel said.^^^ and be sure to ask questions, better to ask than wish you would have asked.
Jay D.
1958 PV444 repaint what kind of paint to buy?
20 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Top Contributor
Posts: 6731
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm Location: OREGON COAST |
they say my name is Jay
|
previous cars-'61 Daimler SP250, '77 Avanti II, '77 Mercedes 280E, still have my '67 Chevy C10 long-bed.
|
|
Top Contributor
Posts: 6731
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm Location: OREGON COAST |
if your handy with a welder and body tools I would just replace the quarter if you have a GOOD one. i'm not sure were I would start I've never worked on one of those. you could just use part of the panel or the complete quarter you will be able to see on the donor car what it involves. hopefully you have a good door also.
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
|
No door on the donor car, I've got most of it pushed back out but it has some oil canning going on too, it also seems to be slightly lower on the door skin around where it hits the outer frame all the way around.I am hoping I can be patient enough to get it to the point of needing a skim coat but we'll see. These cars are uni-body cars, the outer skin of the quarters are very accessible from the b-pillar all the way back to the tail lights. I just need to look into whether I will have to weld cross supports in while the partial quarter is cut out, this I have no idea of. It is a lot more work than I was hoping for, as usual. Thanks for the input previous cars-'61 Daimler SP250, '77 Avanti II, '77 Mercedes 280E, still have my '67 Chevy C10 long-bed.
|
|
Top Contributor
Posts: 6731
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm Location: OREGON COAST |
yep, it looks like its stretched quite a lot. that why I suggested replacing all or part of the quarter panel. this depends on your comfortable skill level, I do it all the time so its easy for me that's why I suggested that way. you can just take your time and flatten that area as best you can. then your going to need to shrink it some . do you have a stud gun most come with a shrinking tip and they work good. you can use a acetylene torch also, its just a little more complicated. you'll want to heat a spot about the size of a nickel just to were it starts to turn red then let it cool. a lot of people like to cool with a cold wet rag but that tends to temper the metal some making it more difficult to shape it with a hammer and dolly. do you have a picture of the door damage?
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
|
You might want to post your metal working questions in the Welding and Metal Fabrication forum. Chevman is the guy who knows how to work troubled metal and can help guide you.
Here's a link to an article he wrote on the subject: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18781 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
|
Thank you for that!! previous cars-'61 Daimler SP250, '77 Avanti II, '77 Mercedes 280E, still have my '67 Chevy C10 long-bed.
|
|
How do you lock out a DA? I have the cheapy version in the Hutchins line - I think that it is a ProFinisher 500H To the OP, cool project! Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
|
|
Top Contributor
Posts: 6731
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm Location: OREGON COAST |
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
|
Top Contributor
Posts: 6731
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm Location: OREGON COAST |
they say my name is Jay
|
20 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot], magee84 and 114 guests