Hi all! It's been a while . . . but I've got a quick question. I have always used epoxy primer and am very happy with it. So now the issue. I want to paint the insides of my door (which are textured) if I use even reduced epoxy it is filling the texture. So I wanted to use some SEM self etching primer just to get some tooth for the base coat to stick to. I have looked high and low but can't find the MAXIMUM time it can dry before top coating. It states 30 min. minimum but what if the window to paint? If I got past the max can it be scuffed and painted of does it need to be recoated? Many thanks! Mel

the etch prime is basically a bonding agent for your primer. I usually shoot the etch in a light to medium coat, it doesn't need to be heavy like primer would be. I have based over small spots but I your case I wouldn't recommend it. the tech sheet I believe says not to and to be used as a base for primer. if I were you I would clean the bare metal and shoot a thin coat of basic sealer. I use Nasons Select Seal, its thin bodied so it shouldn't hide any of your texture, plus it shoots right out of the can no mixing. there are also several other ways to do what your wanting. i'm thinking after you seal, base, and clear your texture is not going to be so textured. Sems is good stuff.
Jay D.

907AK wrote: if I use even reduced epoxy it is filling the texture.

Sounds like he wants the texture!

Yep you're correct. I want to keep the build as low as possible so I can have some texture. Second idea . . . shoot bulldog on the metal then shoot base and clear???? I can reduce the epoxy to sealer 4-1-2 but it still has more build then I would like. It's HOK KD-3000. Wonder if I mixed it 2 (epoxy)-2 (reducer) - 1 (cat) if that would thin it out enough? If none of the above I guess I'll just shoot LIGHT 4-1-2 and live with it! Thanks Guys! I guess that the old lacquer did have one advantage. Mel

I don't think the Bulldog is for bare metal. just exactly what are you doing? you may be able to wipe it down with a metal conditioner and then go right to your base. the problem I see here is that your clear is what's going to hide the texture. I don't know what it is but maybe you could do the metal conditioner and go to a S/S or ( wash my mouth out with soap ) a aerosol can of lacquer.
Jay D.

Thanks Jay. I have an old '66 Mustang Convertible and want to paint the inside of the doors to match the exterior (Emberglow) is the color. SEM makes the correct color LACQUER but I only have one jobber in town who will only order it by the case. If I buy it on my own I have to pay ground shipping to Seattle then hazard locker (flammable) on the barge. Figure about $100. So total cost of $200 Which is more then I am willing to spend for a couple cans of rattle can.

When you say to season the metal . . . are you talking about hitting it with (like a) ospho solution cleaning and painting over that? Any way I'll figure out something. FWI they state Bulldog can be used for adhesion doing repairs on metal . . . . Thanks for your time! Mel

Bummer, I was just up in Alaska I could have brought you some. I just looked up the tech sheet for Bulldog Plus adhesion promotor and down about midway ( directions for use on pre painted metal) DO NOT USE ON BARE METAL. but now I see advertisements that state its ok to use on bare metal ( it sticks to anything) you can't believe anybody anymore. good luck with your project let us now how it comes out.
Jay D.