well be sure to let us know how the paint mixing goes. one more last bit of advice. if you shoot the undersides of the trunk and insides of the doors be sure you remove the seals or let the paint cure good before you close them or you'll be sorry. and you made a big mistake, a Coors can is much stronger than the Bud Lite. can.
Jay D.
Noob looking for advice, tips and tricks
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they say my name is Jay
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No agreement from me. In my opinion this is absurd, using a paint which is neither primer nor topcoat and won't perform as either, all in the name of saving a few bucks. You've been told by a number of very experienced people not to do this yet you persist with this ridiculous plan. Sorry mate but I come on here to help people who don't know and ask for advice to do the best job they can. For those willing to follow good advice I'd even visit in person if this were practical to offer help and achieve a good job. But, in my opinion, this plan is gross stupidity and will result in a sub-standard job leading to grief, if not for you then for the poor bugger who buys the car. A good paint job can certainly improve the value of a car but a poor job will only detract from the value. People are not that dumb and will spot the rubbish you're intending to serve up to them. Why bother putting in all that work for no result when for a bit more effort and expense you could have something quite saleable? Madness! I'm done with this thread. Chris
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I agree completely.
You asked for advice and received it but now choose to ignore it and want us to buy off on your plan. Not happening. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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mixing SS and clear and mixing SS and primer are 2 completely different things here. someone here may be able to 'splain better than i can. i gotta go mix up some water and oil for my snowblower now. |
Top Contributor
Posts: 6767
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm Location: OREGON COAST |
i'm with you, Madness. you can buy them books and send them to school and they still can comprehend anything. Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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I am out of this thread!
Last edited by Doright on Tue Nov 27, 2018 8:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
Where's the "LIKE" button? I just have to imagine the OP's posts are someone's different kind of humor??? Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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OMG. It wasn’t INTENDED to be humor but it sure has turned out that way. Ok, FINE. I wont use the white paint at all. I swear that I read somewhere that mixing the primer with paint was a good idea. FINE. It it’s too dark I will just park it in the Arizona sun this summer.
Now, I am reading that I CAN color sand and buff this ss acrylic urethane, even though it is a metallic, you guys are saying no. If it has orange peel, I just gotta live with it, or clear it, then sand. Correct? Why? How come other people say I can? That spot, I thought I had so good, I had to grind most of it out. I made a template and the trim piece was not fitting right. It’s a complicated spot. |
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Other side, drilled holes, trim piece fits well.
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oll address the sand/buff SSmetallic as i think im the only one who mentioned that. i dont know which paint line your using but i did it on sherwin williams- i think it was dimensions SS- about 10 years ago. set of motorcycle tins. an extremely dark blue with a blue metallic flake.ive read that with SS the clear comes to the surface but i dont know- what i had happen was i was sanding on some of the flake which made little silver specs all over the tank -looked like it had acne. was using 1200 grit,too as it laid pretty nice- just a bit of OP in one spot. ended up scuffing everything, repainting, and spraying a couple coats of clear.
could have been the paint but after screwing up, thats when my jobber-who was quite knowledgable and helpful- said,"oh- forgot to mention ya dont want to sand SS metallics for that reason." |
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