You guys were right. It did not turn out well. Tiger stripes on the trunk and hood, general mottling, and I didn’t have enough primer. Trunk and hood look the worst, the rest of the car is OK, but it’s not smooth and flat, sun hits it wrong, looks like hell, needs at least clear. Can I sand it just a little and make it look uniform first? I still have some leftover 1200 grit.

Hey, it’s OK, this only cost me like $90 more and one more day than just doing a primer job. Call it a “temporary” paint job, if you will. The paint is readilly avaialble from Summit, so if you like the color, there’s a good base to start with.

Tiger striping, which I never suspected would be a problem, because I’m a noob, was a problem. Lotta layers, kept going, more layers. Missed some spots, next day, more layers on the trunk and hood, still mottling .... I still got like a quart, mixed with activator and reducer, and I suspect, the problem was ....... anyone?

Yep, the cheap $10 gun, the noob, getting sunburned and hafting to take breaks with the mask off, spilling paint, had gloves but made my hands sweat, ended up saying f it ... still got blue in my fingernails. Paint sticks real good, but it’s not smooth and it’s mottled. You guys were right. Single stage metallic for a noobish painter, bad idea. Don’t do it.

https://ibb.co/vcncnnn

Update:

Ok, so sorry the video isn’t out yet. I bought a buffer, and tried to wax the trunk lid, which in my opinion needs repainting anyway. It didn’t turn out so good. Now working on removing that wax before sanding with 2000 grit and buffing. If it doesn’t work, well maybe next time I buy a better gun, shoot clear. This should be a REALLY good primer and sealer for a future, better paint job in the same color.

Unfortunately, I ran into some medical problems and sort of had to rush it to a finish, but also the gun just can’t spray it fine enough. Doesn’t matter what my skill level is, not gonna be a pro job. And unfortunately there is still lots of small details in the bodywork that still need fixing. So, given the constraints, I about got what I expected. I can at least put the trim back on the car, have it as a complete car and figure out other stuff later. Summit has lots of the same paint.

Now, I have seen in the past, single stage paints, sanded with 2000 and buffed and looked great. So, Harbor Freight sale, I can get a buffer and some sandpaper for $50. I know, “no, no, you can’t sand metallic” ... yeah you can. Look, if you have big chunks of metal in your paint, yeah, be carefull, but this modern acrylic eurethane “metallic” is just little plastic beads. I got it on there nice and thick. Since the trunk lid needs redone anyway, IF I can color sand and buff this paint, well then ... we got something. If I can’t, no big deal, gotta get a better gun, and shoot clear.

Usually the point of posting and asking questions is for the newbie to learn how to do things properly.

You seem to have chosen to try and prove the advice you have been given as wrong by insisting on doing things your way.

Even though now you admit that the advice given here was correct, you still seem bent on doing a terrible job on this car. So I have to wonder what the point of your post is?

Maybe you desire to be the poster boy for our "we told you so" advertising campaign?

65Marauder wrote:Update:




Now, I have seen in the past, single stage paints, sanded with 2000 and buffed and looked great. So, Harbor Freight sale, I can get a buffer and some sandpaper for $50. I know, “no, no, you can’t sand metallic” ... yeah you can. Look, if you have big chunks of metal in your paint, yeah, be carefull, but this modern acrylic eurethane “metallic” is just little plastic beads. I got it on there nice and thick. Since the trunk lid needs redone anyway, IF I can color sand and buff this paint, well then ... we got something. If I can’t, no big deal, gotta get a better gun, and shoot clear.

solid color single stage paints sand and buff great. i have no idea what paint line uses plastic beads for their metallic. the ones ive worked with are a plastic flake. i dont know if metal is used for flake any more even.
check out this thread at meguiars
https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showt ... llic-Paint
anoither thread about it
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thr ... tf.707602/
and another
https://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=48503

you can search for more if you feel but theyre probably all wrong.

i hope when this comes out screwed up ya dont jump on other forums like meguiars and autogeek blaming products like ya did with the meguiars fiasco.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Usually the point of posting and asking questions is for the newbie to learn how to do things properly.

You seem to have chosen to try and prove the advice you have been given as wrong by insisting on doing things your way.

Even though now you admit that the advice given here was correct, you still seem bent on doing a terrible job on this car. So I have to wonder what the point of your post is?

Maybe you desire to be the poster boy for our "we told you so" advertising campaign?

you can talk to them, you can buy them books, you can send them to school, and they still don't know anything. that's the way some are!
Jay D.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Usually the point of posting and asking questions is for the newbie to learn how to do things properly.

You seem to have chosen to try and prove the advice you have been given as wrong by insisting on doing things your way.

Even though now you admit that the advice given here was correct, you still seem bent on doing a terrible job on this car. So I have to wonder what the point of your post is?

Maybe you desire to be the poster boy for our "we told you so" advertising campaign?

Yer missing my point.

You can get a nice paint job from roll on, Rustoleum, if you know what you are doing.

What I am looking for, is not your usual request. I would like to, of course just be able to buy paint from frim Summit, as needed and put, whatever it takes, more layers, a clear coat but right now, there is still bodywork imperfections, I am looking at this paint as just a step above primer. Never going to be a pro job but also I had to rush it towards the end.

So, now we got an experiment. Right? Let’s have fun with it. I sanded down the trunk with 1200 grit and tried a cheap buffer I got from Craigslist and some AIO cleaner wax and it was a total disaster. Ok, everyone calm down. I am not interested in suing anbody, ok? I just wanna know how to get this “stuff” off my car, used Turtle Wax Bug and Tar remover, THANK YOU TURTLE WAX! Meguiar’s? I do not have good things to say about how they handled my phone call. The guy, and Meguiars reps online went into damage control, instantly trying to like tilt what I was saying to something else, to the point where I had to say, “You recorded the call, right? For quality purposes, go back and listen to the call.”

I try and tell the guy, it’s single stage acrylic eurethane, it should gas out in 48 hours and he goes, “Look you keep changing your story, first you said 3 weeks after painting your car, now you say 48 hours.” Yeah, I waited 3 weeks, instead of 48 hours,

Seemed like everyone at Meguiars was looking to find ways to blame me, and guess what they even hunted down this thread and quoted me about “tiger stripes”. Full on COVER YOUR ****, do not helpmthe poor person that bought your product. They offered me a refund, if I spent the money to ship it back. As a guy who has dealt with all kinda of people in this business .... really feel like Meguiars has about the worst customer service possible. Instead of working woth me to find a solution, it’s all about it is your fault. When I said, “Why is there not a warning on this bottle to not use this on paint less than 90 days old” the guy said, and I kid you not, go back and listen to the tape, I had to ask him to say ot again, “You wouldn’t use this as shampoo, either.”

I responded, something like, “Look man, I didn’t call you for some back and forth. All I want to know is how to get this ... pause, stuff off my car.”

It’s apples to oranges. Don’t friggin assume I am some idiot. I purchased a product to polish paint on a car, and that is what I was using it for. That is what I am calling you about. Problems with car polish that I used to polish a car.

Really made me angry. Guy at Meguiars was jerking me around.

Purchased today from Harbor Freight: 6 inch buffer polisher, I got a polisher pad and a finishing pad, they did not have 2000 grit paper so, another trip another store gonna get some 2000 grit, some compound just buff out that trunk like your standard deal and ... we’ll see, wont we?

Who’s with me that I can cut and buff this acrylic eurethane? I know it can be done. It does not take a science dude to figure this out. Not hard.

Anyone want to bet against metallic acrylic eurthane being sanded and buffed? We got a perfect example with my car, it’s either going to be sanded and buffed to a decent paint job, or not.

Ok? Everyone chill out, I am not gonna sue anybody over this, I just AM NOT HAPPY with not only the results, of the Meguiars Cleaner Wax, but really the F minus customer support. “You wouldn’t use it as shampoo, either.” I wanted to punch that guy in the face through the phone. Everyone looked to blame me, and put me down and I had to fight and claw, just to get a general idea of how to remove the .... product.

Pretty much done with anything Meguiars. Lookin at sealents instead of wax. Anything better than Wolfgangs?

Anyone? Prefer an honest opinion, void of commercial sales pitches. Thanks.

It’s OK to throw out ideas and be wrong. What we’ve got going for us, is good coverage. It’s on there thick.

Here is an idea:

Sand it down, buff it, whatever, don’t use a sealent or a wax on it at all, re-shoot an orientation coat and clear.

Noted. We’ll call that Option A.

Seems like there must be a harder way, where I get to complain more and blame other people. Still looking into that as a pretty solid option B.

I’m real, sorry for the language but it as a real ***nty thing to say, “You wouldn’t use this as shampoo, either.” Yeah, I’m not an idiot, I wouldn’t brush my teeth with steel wool, either, but this is car polish, which I was tryna use to polish a car.”

I’ll never use a Meguiar’s product again, after that interaction. Ban me if you want for saying a product sucked but, Meguiar’s can suck my balls.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=brjVfLwSCF4

Really, really bad customer service and I wont forget it. Don’t ever use that “shampoo” line again, becaue it’s offensive to think I will buy that apples to oranges comparison.

Furthermore, their reponse of telling me to ship the product back to them, at my cost, for a refund, is more just FU evidence that they really don’t like their customers, or stand behind their product even when u follow directions and warnings on the bottle.

You gonna show up, like a legit co. and pay 4 bucks for shipping? No? GFY.

Really, they should pay 100 bucks or whatever it costs to remove the crappy product.

I’m gonna say that again, and you can ban me if you want for bashing your ad revenue but, Meguiar’s Cleaner Wax is a crappy product. Period. It set me back and cost me a lot of time and money. I coulda used bleach and powdered sugar and gotten a similar result.

Also, I’m not the first person to say it should only be used on a white car.

WOW, you really need to LIGHTEN UP you'll get MUCH further in this world if you treat people that are trying to help you with respect, politeness and a little good humor. i'm not sure what you have but the first product I would grab would be some wax and grease remover solvent type.
Jay D.