Noob looking for advice, tips and tricks

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 11:46 pm
:knockout: well be sure to let us know how the paint mixing goes. one more last bit of advice. if you shoot the undersides of the trunk and insides of the doors be sure you remove the seals or let the paint cure good before you close them or you'll be sorry. and you made a big mistake, a Coors can is much stronger than the Bud Lite. can. :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl:
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2018 6:58 am
65Marauder wrote:So, I am thinking, I am going to go ahead and mix the white with the primer at 1:1. There’s a few reasons for this. Mostly is I want the primer layer to be as light as possible and 2, there are lots of areas to prime and I think I will use a full gallon. I may even have to rattle can some areas that are under the trunk, for instance. Also, I think it will give the primer a little extra hardness and slickness. I read on Summit that they suggest mixing some of your base color with the primer, but I understand why that is a bad idea with metallic. Are we in agreement that this is OK?


No agreement from me. In my opinion this is absurd, using a paint which is neither primer nor topcoat and won't perform as either, all in the name of saving a few bucks. You've been told by a number of very experienced people not to do this yet you persist with this ridiculous plan.

Sorry mate but I come on here to help people who don't know and ask for advice to do the best job they can. For those willing to follow good advice I'd even visit in person if this were practical to offer help and achieve a good job. But, in my opinion, this plan is gross stupidity and will result in a sub-standard job leading to grief, if not for you then for the poor bugger who buys the car.

A good paint job can certainly improve the value of a car but a poor job will only detract from the value. People are not that dumb and will spot the rubbish you're intending to serve up to them. Why bother putting in all that work for no result when for a bit more effort and expense you could have something quite saleable?

Madness! I'm done with this thread. :(
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2018 8:42 am
I agree completely. :goodpost: :goodpost: :goodpost:

You asked for advice and received it but now choose to ignore it and want us to buy off on your plan. Not happening.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2018 10:50 am
65Marauder wrote:
I saw a guy on youtube “make” single stage by mixing base and clear. Made me go hmmm.


mixing SS and clear and mixing SS and primer are 2 completely different things here.
someone here may be able to 'splain better than i can.
i gotta go mix up some water and oil for my snowblower now.



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2018 12:31 pm
NFT5 wrote:
65Marauder wrote:So, I am thinking, I am going to go ahead and mix the white with the primer at 1:1. There’s a few reasons for this. Mostly is I want the primer layer to be as light as possible and 2, there are lots of areas to prime and I think I will use a full gallon. I may even have to rattle can some areas that are under the trunk, for instance. Also, I think it will give the primer a little extra hardness and slickness. I read on Summit that they suggest mixing some of your base color with the primer, but I understand why that is a bad idea with metallic. Are we in agreement that this is OK?


No agreement from me. In my opinion this is absurd, using a paint which is neither primer nor topcoat and won't perform as either, all in the name of saving a few bucks. You've been told by a number of very experienced people not to do this yet you persist with this ridiculous plan.

Sorry mate but I come on here to help people who don't know and ask for advice to do the best job they can. For those willing to follow good advice I'd even visit in person if this were practical to offer help and achieve a good job. But, in my opinion, this plan is gross stupidity and will result in a sub-standard job leading to grief, if not for you then for the poor bugger who buys the car.

A good paint job can certainly improve the value of a car but a poor job will only detract from the value. People are not that dumb and will spot the rubbish you're intending to serve up to them. Why bother putting in all that work for no result when for a bit more effort and expense you could have something quite saleable?

Madness! I'm done with this thread. :(


:goodpost: i'm with you, Madness. you can buy them books and send them to school and they still can comprehend anything.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2018 11:56 pm
I am out of this thread!
Last edited by Doright on Tue Nov 27, 2018 8:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
Dennis Barnett
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2018 12:55 am
Doright wrote:...Many of us hear have Had to fix things done by the likes of other Hacks such as yourself.

And by the way your dreaming about what you want out of that car. Its not worth that much even in good condition,especially with Bondo filled quarters!
If by chance you do successfully sell it too anyone that comes here for advice on how to fix it properly I will make sure to tell them about the known damage you just Masked and covered with filler and Beer cans so they can take you to court for selling a used car under false information by not divulging how you Put the Quarter panels together with filler and Beer cans.

I am out of this thread!


Where's the "LIKE" button? :goodpost:

I just have to imagine the OP's posts are someone's different kind of humor???
Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 11:34 am
OMG. It wasn’t INTENDED to be humor but it sure has turned out that way. Ok, FINE. I wont use the white paint at all. I swear that I read somewhere that mixing the primer with paint was a good idea. FINE. It it’s too dark I will just park it in the Arizona sun this summer.

Now, I am reading that I CAN color sand and buff this ss acrylic urethane, even though it is a metallic, you guys are saying no. If it has orange peel, I just gotta live with it, or clear it, then sand. Correct? Why? How come other people say I can?

That spot, I thought I had so good, I had to grind most of it out. I made a template and the trim piece was not fitting right. It’s a complicated spot.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 11:39 am
Other side, drilled holes, trim piece fits well.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 8:22 am
oll address the sand/buff SSmetallic as i think im the only one who mentioned that. i dont know which paint line your using but i did it on sherwin williams- i think it was dimensions SS- about 10 years ago. set of motorcycle tins. an extremely dark blue with a blue metallic flake.ive read that with SS the clear comes to the surface but i dont know- what i had happen was i was sanding on some of the flake which made little silver specs all over the tank -looked like it had acne. was using 1200 grit,too as it laid pretty nice- just a bit of OP in one spot. ended up scuffing everything, repainting, and spraying a couple coats of clear.

could have been the paint but after screwing up, thats when my jobber-who was quite knowledgable and helpful- said,"oh- forgot to mention ya dont want to sand SS metallics for that reason."
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